Azelaic Acid 20% w/w Serum

Helloskin

Where to buy Possibly in stock

About this product

The Helloskin Azelaic Acid 20% w/w Serum is a serums, essence, ampoule. Our analysis of its 20 ingredients (13 low-risk) rates it Excellent (93/100). Based on its ingredients, it looks well-suited to oily / acne-prone and dry skin. Heads up: it contains fragrance, which can irritate sensitive or reactive skin.

Vegan-friendly Reef-safe

Summarised from our ingredient analysis — not brand marketing copy.

At a glance

Type
Serums, Essence, Ampoules
Ingredients
20
Low-risk
13
Fragrance
Contains fragrance
Origin
Australia

The evidence

Quick Product Notes

Paraben-Free Sulfate-Free Alcohol-Free Silicone-Free EU Allergen-Free Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Safe

Notable Effects & Ingredients

No Notable Effects & Ingredients

Ingredients Related to Skin Types

Good   Bad — tap a skin type to see which ingredients · estimated from ingredient functions
Dry Skin 5/3
Good for dry skin
C13-14 Isoparaffin Betaine Undecane Glycerin Polyglycerin-6
Caution for dry skin
Glycerin Salicylic Acid Laureth-7
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin 2/0
Good for oily/acne-prone skin
Azelaic Acid Salicylic Acid
Sensitive Skin 2/6
Good for sensitive skin
Glycerin Ferulic Acid
Caution for sensitive skin
Azelaic Acid Glycerin Tridecane Salicylic Acid Sorbic Acid Benzyl Alcohol

Ingredients list

20 total
Lower hazard (1) Higher hazard (5)
All20 Fragrance7 Skin Conditioning7 Solvent5 Humectant5 Preservative4 Hair Conditioning4 Viscosity Controlling3 Viscosity Decreasing Agent3
EWG CIR Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions Notes
1
Water
(Solvent)
1
A
Azelaic Acid
(Fragrance, Ph Adjuster, Buffering Agent, Masking)
1
A
Niacinamide
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing)
1
Undecane
(Emollient, Skin Conditioning)
1
Tridecane
(Perfuming)
1
Propanediol
(Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
4
B
Polyacrylamide
(Binding Agent, Film Forming, Hair Fixing, Antistatic Agent, Binding)
1
B
C13-14 Isoparaffin
(Emollient, Solvent)
3
B
Laureth-7
(Emulsifying, Surfactant)
Polyglycerin-6
(Humectant)
1
B
Betaine
(Hair Conditioning, Humectant, Antistatic Agent, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling)
5
A
Benzyl Alcohol
(External Analgesic, Fragrance, Oral Health Care Drug, Preservative, Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Masking)
Allergens
Allergens
4
B
Salicylic Acid
(Antiacne Agent, Antidandruff Agent, Corn/Callus/Wart Remover, Denaturant, Exfoliant, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Keratolytic, Masking, Preservative)
Good for Oily Skin
Good for Oily Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
2
A
Glycerin
(Denaturant, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Humectant, Oral Care Agent, Oral Health Care Drug, Skin Protecting, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Perfuming, Solvent)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
3
A
Sorbic Acid
(Fragrance, Preservative)
1
A
Disodium EDTA
(Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
2
Ferulic Acid
(Antioxidant, Preservative, Uv Absorber, Antimicrobial)
TOCOPHEROL
(Antioxidant, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning)
Citrus Reticulata Fruit
(Skin Conditioning)
PARFUM
(Fragrance, Perfuming)

My Ingredient Notes

No personal ingredient notes yet. Save ingredients to your profile to get good/bad alerts here.

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Key ingredients

Antioxidants
Shields skin from free radical damage.
BHA
Unclogs pores and reduces excess oil.
Vitamin E
Protects skin and soothes irritation.
Niacinamide
Strengthens, smooths, and brightens skin.
Azelaic Acid
Gently exfoliates and reduces inflammation.

Benefits

BrighteningRestores radiance to dull, tired skin.
Barrier RepairStrengthen and restore your skin's natural barrier.
HydratingBoosts hydration and relieves dry, tight skin.
Scar HealingImproves the look of marks and scars.
Acne FightingFights acne and helps prevent breakouts.
Anti-AgingSoftens lines and helps skin look youthful.
Reduces IrritationEases discomfort and supports skin resilience.
Good For Oily SkinBalances oil and helps reduce shine.

Concerns

Contains eu allergen
Not fungal acne (malassezia) safe
May not suit sensitive skin

Ingredients explained

Water
Solvent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Solvent
Azelaic Acid
Fragrance, Ph adjuster
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A FragrancePh adjusterBuffering agentMasking
Niacinamide
Hair conditioning, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Hair conditioningSkin conditioningSmoothing
Undecane
Emollient, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 EmollientSkin conditioning
Tridecane
Perfuming
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Perfuming
Propanediol
Solvent, Viscosity decreasing agent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 SolventViscosity decreasing agentViscosity controlling
Polyacrylamide
Binding agent, Film forming
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 4 CIR B Binding agentFilm formingHair fixingAntistatic agentBinding
C13-14 Isoparaffin
Emollient, Solvent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR B EmollientSolvent
Laureth-7
Emulsifying, Surfactant
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR B EmulsifyingSurfactant
Polyglycerin-6
Humectant
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A Humectant
Betaine
Hair conditioning, Humectant
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR B Hair conditioningHumectantAntistatic agentSkin conditioningViscosity controlling
Sorbic Acid
Fragrance, Preservative
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR A FragrancePreservative
Disodium EDTA
Chelating agent, Viscosity controlling
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Chelating agentViscosity controlling
Ferulic Acid
Antioxidant, Preservative
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 2 AntioxidantPreservativeUv absorberAntimicrobial
TOCOPHEROL
Antioxidant, Fragrance
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A AntioxidantFragranceSkin conditioning
+ 2 more — see the full ingredients list above
Benzyl Alcohol
External analgesic, Fragrance
Moderate-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 5 CIR A External analgesicFragranceOral health care drugPreservativeSolventViscosity decreasing agentMasking Allergens
Salicylic Acid
Antiacne agent, Antidandruff agent
Skin irritation can occur at high concentrationRead moreShow less
EWG 4 CIR B Antiacne agentAntidandruff agentCorn/callus/wart removerDenaturantExfoliantFragranceHair conditioningSkin conditioningKeratolyticMaskingPreservative Good for Oily SkinBad for Sensitive Skin
Glycerin
Denaturant, Fragrance
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 2 CIR A DenaturantFragranceHair conditioningHumectantOral care agentOral health care drugSkin protectingViscosity decreasing agentPerfumingSolvent Good for Dry SkinFungal-acne trigger

How to use

How to use

  • 1 Where it fits: Apply after toner and before moisturiser — thinnest to thickest.
  • 2 Morning only: Apply as the last step of your AM routine, after moisturiser, and reapply every ~2 hours of sun exposure.
  • 3 Wear SPF the next day: Acids and retinoids increase sun sensitivity — daily sunscreen is a must while using this.

General guidance from this product's category and active ingredients — always follow the directions on the package.

Trust & honesty

Pregnancy & breastfeeding

Contains ingredients some choose to avoid or double-check while pregnant or nursing.

Use with caution
BHA (salicylic) (Salicylic Acid)

Low-strength topical salicylic acid (BHA) is generally considered fine. Caution is usually reserved for high-strength leave-on products and salicylic peels.

This is general information, not medical advice. Pregnancy guidance varies and depends on concentration and your individual situation — always check with your doctor, midwife or pharmacist. How we flag this.

Effective levels — general guide

The concentrations these actives are typically effective at in research — not a measurement of this product.

Niacinamide 2–5% (up to 10%)

Most research uses 2–5%; some formulas go to 10%. Very high levels can cause flushing in sensitive skin.

Niacinamide

BHA (salicylic) 0.5–2%

Salicylic acid is OTC-capped at 2%; 0.5–2% is the usual leave-on range. Much below that it acts more as a soothing agent than an exfoliant.

Salicylic Acid

INCI lists don't disclose amounts, and we don't claim to know this product's levels — these are the ranges these ingredients are usually effective at, so you can tell a real formula from "fairy-dusting" a marketed active. How we estimate this.

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