Nº 28 Primer Serum

Hourglass Cosmetics

Where to buy Possibly in stock

About this product

The Hourglass Cosmetics Nº 28 Primer Serum is a misc. Our analysis of its 47 ingredients (20 low-risk) rates it Excellent (91/100). Based on its ingredients, it looks well-suited to dry skin.

Vegan-friendly Reef-safe

Summarised from our ingredient analysis — not brand marketing copy.

At a glance

Type
Misc
Ingredients
47
Low-risk
20
Fragrance
Fragrance-free
Origin
United States

The evidence

Quick Product Notes

Paraben-Free Sulfate-Free Alcohol-Free Silicone-Free EU Allergen-Free Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Safe

Notable Effects & Ingredients

No Notable Effects & Ingredients

Ingredients Related to Skin Types

Good   Bad — tap a skin type to see which ingredients · estimated from ingredient functions
Dry Skin 8/1
Good for dry skin
Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil Dimethiconol Rosa Canina Fruit Oil Borago Officinalis Seed Oil Octyldodecanol Coco-Caprylate/Caprate Dimethicone Cyclopentasiloxane
Caution for dry skin
Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin No data
Sensitive Skin 3/14
Good for sensitive skin
Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate Dimethicone
Caution for sensitive skin
Rosa Damascena Flower Oil Amyris Balsamifera Bark Oil Styrax Benzoin Gum Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil Octyldodecanol Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil Thuja Occidentalis Leaf Oil Cananga Odorata Flower Oil Linalool Citronellol Limonene Benzyl Benzoate Citral Geraniol

Ingredients list

47 total
Lower hazard (1) Higher hazard (7)
All47 Skin Conditioning32 Fragrance18 Masking11 Perfuming11 Emollient7 Tonic5 Skin Conditioning Emollient5 Hair Conditioning5
EWG CIR Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions Notes
3
A
Cyclopentasiloxane
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Solvent)
Silicone
Silicone
3
A
Dimethicone
(Antifoaming Agent, Skin Protecting, Emollient, Skin Conditioning)
Silicone
Silicone
1
B
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
(Emollient, Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Dimethiconol
(Antifoaming Agent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Moisturising)
Silicone
Silicone
1
A
Phenyl Trimethicone
(Antifoaming Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
Silicone
Silicone
1
A
Octyldodecanol
(Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Perfuming, Solvent)
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
(Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Dimethicone Crosspolymer
(Emulsion Stabilising, Hair Fixing, Suspending Agent Nonsurfactant, Viscosity Increasingagent Nonaqueous, Viscosity Controlling)
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
(Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Skin Conditioning Emollient)
Oryza Sativa Bran Extract
(Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting)
Citrus Limon Peel Oil
(Fragrance, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning)
lavandula angustifolia oil
(Fragrance, Tonic)
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil
(Fragrance, Skin Conditioning)
Helianthus Annuus Extract
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Skin Conditioning Emollient)
aleurites moluccanus seed oil
(Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Borago Officinalis Seed Oil
(Emollient, Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil
(Humectant, Skin Conditioning)
corylus avellana seed oil
(Fragrance)
oenothera biennis oil
(Skin Conditioning Emollient)
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
(Fragrance, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
(Emollient, Skin Conditioning)
SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS SEED OIL
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Skin Conditioning Emollient)
TOCOPHEROL
(Antioxidant, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning)
rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
(Antimicrobial, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning)
1
Amyris Balsamifera Bark Oil
(Masking, Perfuming)
Aniba Rosaeodora Wood Oil
(Astringent, Fragrance, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Tonic)
3
Cananga Odorata Flower Oil
(Masking, Perfuming)
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Citrus Aurantium Amara Leaf/Twig Oil
(Flavouring, Fragrance)
citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil
(Fragrance, Skin Conditioning)
2
Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil
(Perfuming, Skin Conditioning)
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Eugenia Caryophyllus Leaf Oil
(Fragrance, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Tonic)
1
Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil
(Masking)
1
Styrax Benzoin Gum
(Film Forming, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning)
3
Thuja Occidentalis Leaf Oil
(Masking, Perfuming, Tonic)
1
Panthenyl Triacetate
(Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning)
Prunus Avium Seed Oil
(Emulsion Stabilising, Skin Conditioning, Skin Conditioning Emollient)
1
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
(Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning)
Retinyl Palmitate
(Skin Conditioning, Skin Conditioning Miscellaneous)
1
Rosa Damascena Flower Oil
(Masking, Skin Conditioning)
1
Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract
(Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Smoothing)
7
Geraniol
(Fragrance, Masking, Tonic)
Allergens
Allergens
5
Citronellol
(Fragrance, Masking)
Allergens
Allergens
7
Citral
(Flavoring Agent, Fragrance, Masking)
Allergens
Allergens
5
Linalool
(Fragrance, Deodorant, Masking)
Allergens
Allergens
6
Limonene
(Deodorant, Perfuming, Solvent)
Allergens
Allergens
6
A
Benzyl Benzoate
(Fragrance, Solvent, Antimicrobial, Masking)
Allergens
Allergens
4
CI 15850
(Cosmetic Colorant)

My Ingredient Notes

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Key ingredients

Antioxidants
Shields skin from free radical damage.
Retinoid
Visibly reduces the signs of aging.
Vitamin C
Brightens, evens tone, and supports collagen.
Vitamin E
Protects skin and soothes irritation.

Benefits

HydratingBoosts hydration and relieves dry, tight skin.
Scar HealingImproves the look of marks and scars.
Barrier RepairStrengthen and restore your skin's natural barrier.
Reduces IrritationEases discomfort and supports skin resilience.
Redness ReducingSoothes visible redness and calms irritation.
BrighteningRestores radiance to dull, tired skin.
Dark SpotsFades dark spots for even skin tone.
Anti-AgingSoftens lines and helps skin look youthful.

Concerns

Contains silicone
Contains eu allergen
Geraniol — higher EWG
Citral — higher EWG
May not suit sensitive skin

EWG flags hazard, not real-world risk — ratings don't account for how much of an ingredient a product contains. Treat these as things to research, not verdicts. How we score →

Ingredients explained

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Emollient, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR B EmollientSkin conditioning
Octyldodecanol
Fragrance, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A FragranceSkin conditioningEmollientPerfumingSolvent
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Skin conditioning
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A Skin conditioning
Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Emulsion stabilising, Hair fixing
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Emulsion stabilisingHair fixingSuspending agent - nonsurfactantViscosity increasingagent - nonaqueousViscosity controlling
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Fragrance, Skin conditioning
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A FragranceSkin conditioningSkin conditioning emollient
Oryza Sativa Bran Extract
Skin conditioning, Skin protecting
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A Skin conditioningSkin protecting
Citrus Limon Peel Oil
Fragrance, Perfuming
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A FragrancePerfumingSkin conditioning
lavandula angustifolia oil
Fragrance, Tonic
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A FragranceTonic
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil
Fragrance, Skin conditioning
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A FragranceSkin conditioning
Helianthus Annuus Extract
Hair conditioning, Skin conditioning
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A Hair conditioningSkin conditioningSkin conditioning emollient
aleurites moluccanus seed oil
Skin conditioning
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A Skin conditioning
Borago Officinalis Seed Oil
Emollient, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A EmollientSkin conditioning
Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil
Humectant, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A HumectantSkin conditioning
corylus avellana seed oil
Fragrance
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A Fragrance
oenothera biennis oil
Skin conditioning emollient
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A Skin conditioning emollient
+ 20 more — see the full ingredients list above
Cyclopentasiloxane
Hair conditioning, Skin conditioning
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR A Hair conditioningSkin conditioningEmollientSolvent Silicone
Dimethicone
Antifoaming agent, Skin protecting
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR A Antifoaming agentSkin protectingEmollientSkin conditioning Silicone
Dimethiconol
Antifoaming agent, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Antifoaming agentSkin conditioningEmollientMoisturising Silicone
Phenyl Trimethicone
Antifoaming agent, Hair conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Antifoaming agentHair conditioningSkin conditioning Silicone
Cananga Odorata Flower Oil
Masking, Perfuming
Strong essential oil which can irritate skinRead moreShow less
EWG 3 MaskingPerfuming Bad for Sensitive Skin
Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil
Perfuming, Skin conditioning
Strong essential oil which can irritate skinRead moreShow less
EWG 2 PerfumingSkin conditioning Bad for Sensitive Skin
Geraniol
Fragrance, Masking
Higher-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 7 FragranceMaskingTonic Allergens
Citronellol
Fragrance, Masking
Moderate-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 5 FragranceMasking Allergens
Citral
Flavoring agent, Fragrance
Higher-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 7 Flavoring agentFragranceMasking Allergens
Linalool
Fragrance, Deodorant
Moderate-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 5 FragranceDeodorantMasking Allergens
Limonene
Deodorant, Perfuming
Moderate-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 6 DeodorantPerfumingSolvent Allergens
Benzyl Benzoate
Fragrance, Solvent
Moderate-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 6 CIR A FragranceSolventAntimicrobialMasking Allergens

How to use

How to use

  • 1 Evening: Use at night — start 2–3× a week and build up as your skin tolerates it.
  • 2 Wear SPF the next day: Acids and retinoids increase sun sensitivity — daily sunscreen is a must while using this.

General guidance from this product's category and active ingredients — always follow the directions on the package.

Trust & honesty

Pregnancy & breastfeeding

Contains ingredients some choose to avoid or double-check while pregnant or nursing.

Often avoided
Retinoids (Vitamin A) (Retinyl Palmitate)

Topical retinoids (retinol, retinaldehyde, retinyl esters) are widely advised against in pregnancy as a precaution. The strongest evidence is for ORAL retinoids; topical absorption is low, but most clinicians err on the side of caution.

This is general information, not medical advice. Pregnancy guidance varies and depends on concentration and your individual situation — always check with your doctor, midwife or pharmacist. How we flag this.

Effective levels — general guide

The concentrations these actives are typically effective at in research — not a measurement of this product.

Retinoids (Vitamin A) 0.01–1%

Most studied between 0.1% and 1%. Higher is not automatically better — irritation climbs with dose, so a well-formulated lower strength is often the sweet spot.

Retinyl Palmitate

Vitamin C (ascorbic) 5–20%

L-ascorbic acid is usually used at 5–20% (around 10–15% is common). Above ~20% adds little and tends to irritate more; it also needs a low pH to work.

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

INCI lists don't disclose amounts, and we don't claim to know this product's levels — these are the ranges these ingredients are usually effective at, so you can tell a real formula from "fairy-dusting" a marketed active. How we estimate this.

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