Intensive Propolis + Salicylic Acid

Institut Esthederm

Where to buy Possibly in stock

About this product

The Institut Esthederm Intensive Propolis + Salicylic Acid is a serums, essence, ampoule. Our analysis of its 33 ingredients (21 low-risk) rates it Excellent (80/100). Based on its ingredients, it looks well-suited to oily / acne-prone skin.

Reef-safe

Summarised from our ingredient analysis — not brand marketing copy.

At a glance

Type
Serums, Essence, Ampoules
Ingredients
33
Low-risk
21
Fragrance
Fragrance-free
Origin
France

The evidence

Quick Product Notes

Paraben-Free Sulfate-Free Alcohol-Free Silicone-Free EU Allergen-Free Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Safe

Notable Effects & Ingredients

No Notable Effects & Ingredients

Ingredients Related to Skin Types

Good   Bad — tap a skin type to see which ingredients · estimated from ingredient functions
Dry Skin 6/10
Good for dry skin
C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetyl Alcohol Propylene Glycol Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate Propylheptyl Caprylate Jojoba Esters
Caution for dry skin
Cetyl Alcohol Xanthan Gum Salicylic Acid Potassium Cetyl Phosphate Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate Laureth-7 Sodium Hydroxide Eugenol Silica
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin 1/0
Good for oily/acne-prone skin
Salicylic Acid
Sensitive Skin 4/11
Good for sensitive skin
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate Laminaria Digitata Extract Jojoba Esters Aminoethanesulfinic Acid
Caution for sensitive skin
Cetyl Alcohol Propylene Glycol Salicylic Acid Benzyl Cinnamate Benzyl Alcohol Anise Alcohol Benzyl Benzoate Benzyl Salicylate Cinnamyl Alcohol Eugenol Isoeugenol

Ingredients list

33 total
Lower hazard (1) Higher hazard (7)
All33 Skin Conditioning16 Fragrance12 Masking9 Solvent7 Viscosity Controlling5 Emollient5 Surfactant5 Emulsifying5
EWG CIR Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions Notes
1
Water
(Solvent)
1
Propanediol
(Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
1
B
Propylheptyl Caprylate
(Emollient)
1
Methylpropanediol
(Solvent)
4
B
Salicylic Acid
(Antiacne Agent, Antidandruff Agent, Corn/Callus/Wart Remover, Denaturant, Exfoliant, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Keratolytic, Masking, Preservative)
Good for Oily Skin
Good for Oily Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
1
B
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
(Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1
2
A
Silica
(Abrasive, Absorbent, Anticaking Agent, Bulking Agent, Opacifying, Viscosity Controlling)
3
Zinc Gluconate
(Cosmetic Biocide, Skin Conditioning, Deodorant)
1
B
Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate
(Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1
Propolis Extract
(Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Xanthan Gum
(Binding Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Skin Conditioning, Surfactant Emulsifying Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Binding, Gel Forming, Viscosity Controlling)
3
B
Sodium Hydroxide
(Denaturant, Ph Adjuster, Buffering Agent)
4
B
Polyacrylamide
(Binding Agent, Film Forming, Hair Fixing, Antistatic Agent, Binding)
1
A
Jojoba Esters
(Emollient, Moisturising, Skin Conditioning, Soothing)
1
B
C13-14 Isoparaffin
(Emollient, Solvent)
1
A
Cetyl Alcohol
(Emulsion Stabilising, Fragrance, Opacifying, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emollient, Masking, Viscosity Controlling)
1
B
Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax
(Emulsifying, Surfactant)
Aminoethanesulfinic Acid
(Antioxidant, Reducing)
1
A
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
(Antioxidant)
3
B
Propylene Glycol
(Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioningagent Miscellaneous, Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
3
B
Laureth-7
(Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1
Carnosine
(Skin Conditioning)
TOCOPHEROL
(Antioxidant, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning)
1
Disodium Adenosine Triphosphate
(Skin Conditioning)
1
Laminaria Digitata Extract
(Skin Protecting)
5
A
Benzyl Alcohol
(External Analgesic, Fragrance, Oral Health Care Drug, Preservative, Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Masking)
Allergens
Allergens
5
Anise Alcohol
(Fragrance, Masking)
Allergens
Allergens
6
A
Benzyl Benzoate
(Fragrance, Solvent, Antimicrobial, Masking)
Allergens
Allergens
5
Benzyl Cinnamate
(Fragrance, Perfuming)
Allergens
Allergens
7
Benzyl Salicylate
(Fragrance, Uv Absorber, Masking)
Allergens
Allergens
7
Cinnamyl Alcohol
(Flavoring Agent, Fragrance, Masking)
Allergens
Allergens
7
Eugenol
(Denaturant, Fragrance, Masking, Tonic)
Allergens
Allergens
7
Isoeugenol
(Flavoring Agent, Fragrance, Masking)
Allergens
Allergens

My Ingredient Notes

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Key ingredients

Antioxidants
Shields skin from free radical damage.
BHA
Unclogs pores and reduces excess oil.
Vitamin E
Protects skin and soothes irritation.
Propolis
Soothes inflammation and supports healing.
Zinc
Helps control oil and supports healing.
Exfoliators
Removes dead skin cells to smoothe texture.
Show all 6 key ingredients

Benefits

HydratingBoosts hydration and relieves dry, tight skin.
Acne FightingFights acne and helps prevent breakouts.
Good For Oily SkinBalances oil and helps reduce shine.
Reduces Large PoresMinimizes the look of enlarged pores.
Barrier RepairStrengthen and restore your skin's natural barrier.
Anti-AgingSoftens lines and helps skin look youthful.
BrighteningRestores radiance to dull, tired skin.
Reduces IrritationEases discomfort and supports skin resilience.

Concerns

Contains eu allergen
Benzyl Salicylate — higher EWG
Cinnamyl Alcohol — higher EWG
Eugenol — higher EWG
May not suit dry skin
May not suit sensitive skin

EWG flags hazard, not real-world risk — ratings don't account for how much of an ingredient a product contains. Treat these as things to research, not verdicts. How we score →

Ingredients explained

Water
Solvent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Solvent
Propanediol
Solvent, Viscosity decreasing agent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 SolventViscosity decreasing agentViscosity controlling
Propylheptyl Caprylate
Emollient
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR B Emollient
Methylpropanediol
Solvent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Solvent
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Emulsifying, Surfactant
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR B EmulsifyingSurfactant
Silica
Abrasive, Absorbent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1–2 CIR A AbrasiveAbsorbentAnticaking agentBulking agentOpacifyingViscosity controlling
Zinc Gluconate
Cosmetic biocide, Skin conditioning
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 Cosmetic biocideSkin conditioningDeodorant
Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate
Skin conditioning, Emollient
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR B Skin conditioningEmollientEmulsifyingSurfactant
Propolis Extract
Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Skin conditioning
Xanthan Gum
Binding agent, Emulsion stabilising
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Binding agentEmulsion stabilisingSkin conditioningSurfactant -emulsifying agentViscosity increasing agentBindingGel formingViscosity controlling
Sodium Hydroxide
Denaturant, Ph adjuster
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR B DenaturantPh adjusterBuffering agent
Polyacrylamide
Binding agent, Film forming
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 4 CIR B Binding agentFilm formingHair fixingAntistatic agentBinding
Jojoba Esters
Emollient, Moisturising
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A EmollientMoisturisingSkin conditioningSoothing
C13-14 Isoparaffin
Emollient, Solvent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR B EmollientSolvent
Cetyl Alcohol
Emulsion stabilising, Fragrance
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Emulsion stabilisingFragranceOpacifyingEmulsifyingSurfactantFoam boostingViscosity increasing agentEmollientMaskingViscosity controlling
+ 8 more — see the full ingredients list above
Salicylic Acid
Antiacne agent, Antidandruff agent
Skin irritation can occur at high concentrationRead moreShow less
EWG 4 CIR B Antiacne agentAntidandruff agentCorn/callus/wart removerDenaturantExfoliantFragranceHair conditioningSkin conditioningKeratolyticMaskingPreservative Good for Oily SkinBad for Sensitive Skin
Propylene Glycol
Fragrance, Humectant
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR B FragranceHumectantSkin-conditioningagent - miscellaneousSolventViscosity decreasing agentSkin conditioningViscosity controlling Good for Dry Skin
Benzyl Alcohol
External analgesic, Fragrance
Moderate-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 5 CIR A External analgesicFragranceOral health care drugPreservativeSolventViscosity decreasing agentMasking Allergens
Anise Alcohol
Fragrance, Masking
Moderate-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 5 FragranceMasking Allergens
Benzyl Benzoate
Fragrance, Solvent
Moderate-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 6 CIR A FragranceSolventAntimicrobialMasking Allergens
Benzyl Cinnamate
Fragrance, Perfuming
Moderate-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 5 FragrancePerfuming Allergens
Benzyl Salicylate
Fragrance, Uv absorber
Higher-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 7 FragranceUv absorberMasking Allergens
Cinnamyl Alcohol
Flavoring agent, Fragrance
Higher-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 7 Flavoring agentFragranceMasking Allergens
Eugenol
Denaturant, Fragrance
Higher-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 7 DenaturantFragranceMaskingTonic Allergens
Isoeugenol
Flavoring agent, Fragrance
Higher-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 7 Flavoring agentFragranceMasking Allergens

How to use

How to use

  • 1 Where it fits: Apply after toner and before moisturiser — thinnest to thickest.
  • 2 Morning only: Apply as the last step of your AM routine, after moisturiser, and reapply every ~2 hours of sun exposure.
  • 3 Wear SPF the next day: Acids and retinoids increase sun sensitivity — daily sunscreen is a must while using this.

General guidance from this product's category and active ingredients — always follow the directions on the package.

Trust & honesty

Pregnancy & breastfeeding

Contains ingredients some choose to avoid or double-check while pregnant or nursing.

Use with caution
BHA (salicylic) (Salicylic Acid)

Low-strength topical salicylic acid (BHA) is generally considered fine. Caution is usually reserved for high-strength leave-on products and salicylic peels.

This is general information, not medical advice. Pregnancy guidance varies and depends on concentration and your individual situation — always check with your doctor, midwife or pharmacist. How we flag this.

Effective levels — general guide

The concentrations these actives are typically effective at in research — not a measurement of this product.

BHA (salicylic) 0.5–2%

Salicylic acid is OTC-capped at 2%; 0.5–2% is the usual leave-on range. Much below that it acts more as a soothing agent than an exfoliant.

Salicylic Acid

INCI lists don't disclose amounts, and we don't claim to know this product's levels — these are the ranges these ingredients are usually effective at, so you can tell a real formula from "fairy-dusting" a marketed active. How we estimate this.

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