Intensive Retinol

Institut Esthederm

Where to buy Possibly in stock

About this product

The Institut Esthederm Intensive Retinol is a moisturizer. Our analysis of its 22 ingredients (17 low-risk) rates it Excellent (98/100). Based on its ingredients, it looks well-suited to dry skin. Heads up: it contains fragrance, which can irritate sensitive or reactive skin.

Vegan-friendly Reef-safe

Summarised from our ingredient analysis — not brand marketing copy.

At a glance

Type
Moisturizers
Ingredients
22
Low-risk
17
Fragrance
Contains fragrance
Origin
France

The evidence

Quick Product Notes

Paraben-Free Sulfate-Free Alcohol-Free Silicone-Free EU Allergen-Free Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Safe

Notable Effects & Ingredients

No Notable Effects & Ingredients

Ingredients Related to Skin Types

Good   Bad — tap a skin type to see which ingredients · estimated from ingredient functions
Dry Skin 8/5
Good for dry skin
C30-45 Alkyl Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer Cetearyl Alcohol Cetearyl Isononanoate Cetyl Palmitate Glycerin Propylene Glycol Propylene Glycol Dicaprate Cyclopentasiloxane
Caution for dry skin
Cetearyl Glucoside Sorbitan Stearate Glycerin TEA-Stearate Polysorbate 60
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin 0/1
Caution for oily/acne-prone skin
Propylene Glycol Dicaprate
Sensitive Skin 3/6
Good for sensitive skin
Glycerin Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate Laminaria Digitata Extract
Caution for sensitive skin
Dipropylene Glycol Cetyl Palmitate Sorbitan Stearate Glycerin Propylene Glycol Phenoxyethanol

Ingredients list

22 total
Lower hazard (1) Higher hazard (4)
All22 Skin Conditioning12 Fragrance8 Emollient6 Emulsifying5 Hair Conditioning4 Humectant4 Surfactant4 Solvent4
EWG CIR Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions Notes
2
A
Glycerin
(Denaturant, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Humectant, Oral Care Agent, Oral Health Care Drug, Skin Protecting, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Perfuming, Solvent)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
B
Cetearyl Isononanoate
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
3
A
Cyclopentasiloxane
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Solvent)
Silicone
Silicone
1
B
Propylene Glycol Dicaprate
(Skin Conditioning Agent Occlusive, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emollient)
1
A
Dipropylene Glycol
(Fragrance, Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Masking, Viscosity Controlling)
Palmitamide DEA
(Antistatic, Surfactant Foam Boosting, Viscosity Controlling)
1
A
Cetearyl Alcohol
(Emulsion Stabilising, Opacifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent Aqueous, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emollient, Emulsifying, Viscosity Controlling)
3
B
TEA-Stearate
(Cleansing, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1
B
Cetyl Palmitate
(Fragrance, Emollient, Masking, Skin Conditioning)
1
B
Cetearyl Glucoside
(Emulsifying, Surfactant)
4
A
Phenoxyethanol
(Fragrance, Preservative)
Paraben
Paraben
2
A
Chlorphenesin
(Cosmetic Biocide, Antimicrobial, Preservative)
1
A
C30-45 Alkyl Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
(Film Forming, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
Retinyl Palmitate
(Skin Conditioning, Skin Conditioning Miscellaneous)
3
B
Polysorbate 60
(Emulsifying, Surfactant)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
3
B
Propylene Glycol
(Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioningagent Miscellaneous, Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
PARFUM
(Fragrance, Perfuming)
1
A
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
(Antioxidant)
1
A
Sorbitan Stearate
(Fragrance, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
Carnosine
(Skin Conditioning)
TOCOPHEROL
(Antioxidant, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning)
1
Laminaria Digitata Extract
(Skin Protecting)

My Ingredient Notes

No personal ingredient notes yet. Save ingredients to your profile to get good/bad alerts here.

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Key ingredients

Antioxidants
Shields skin from free radical damage.
Retinoid
Visibly reduces the signs of aging.
Vitamin E
Protects skin and soothes irritation.

Benefits

HydratingBoosts hydration and relieves dry, tight skin.
Scar HealingImproves the look of marks and scars.
Barrier RepairStrengthen and restore your skin's natural barrier.
Anti-AgingSoftens lines and helps skin look youthful.
BrighteningRestores radiance to dull, tired skin.
Dark SpotsFades dark spots for even skin tone.
Reduces IrritationEases discomfort and supports skin resilience.
Redness ReducingSoothes visible redness and calms irritation.

Concerns

Contains paraben
Contains silicone
Not fungal acne (malassezia) safe
May not suit oily/acne-prone skin
May not suit sensitive skin

Ingredients explained

Cetearyl Isononanoate
Hair conditioning, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR B Hair conditioningSkin conditioningEmollient
Propylene Glycol Dicaprate
Skin-conditioning agent - occlusive, Viscosity increasing agent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR B Skin-conditioning agent - occlusiveViscosity increasing agentEmollient
Dipropylene Glycol
Fragrance, Solvent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A FragranceSolventViscosity decreasing agentMaskingViscosity controlling
Palmitamide DEA
Antistatic, Surfactant foam boosting
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A AntistaticSurfactant foam boostingViscosity controlling
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emulsion stabilising, Opacifying
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Emulsion stabilisingOpacifyingFoam boostingViscosity increasingagent - aqueousViscosity increasing agentEmollientEmulsifyingViscosity controlling
TEA-Stearate
Cleansing, Emulsifying
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR B CleansingEmulsifyingSurfactant
Cetyl Palmitate
Fragrance, Emollient
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR B FragranceEmollientMaskingSkin conditioning
Cetearyl Glucoside
Emulsifying, Surfactant
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR B EmulsifyingSurfactant
Chlorphenesin
Cosmetic biocide, Antimicrobial
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 2 CIR A Cosmetic biocideAntimicrobialPreservative
C30-45 Alkyl Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Film forming, Hair conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Film formingHair conditioningSkin conditioningEmollient
Retinyl Palmitate
Skin conditioning, Skin conditioning miscellaneous
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A Skin conditioningSkin conditioning miscellaneous
PARFUM
Fragrance, Perfuming
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A FragrancePerfuming
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Antioxidant
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Antioxidant
Carnosine
Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Skin conditioning
TOCOPHEROL
Antioxidant, Fragrance
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A AntioxidantFragranceSkin conditioning
+ 1 more — see the full ingredients list above
Glycerin
Denaturant, Fragrance
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 2 CIR A DenaturantFragranceHair conditioningHumectantOral care agentOral health care drugSkin protectingViscosity decreasing agentPerfumingSolvent Good for Dry SkinFungal-acne trigger
Cyclopentasiloxane
Hair conditioning, Skin conditioning
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR A Hair conditioningSkin conditioningEmollientSolvent Silicone
Phenoxyethanol
Fragrance, Preservative
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 4 CIR A FragrancePreservative Paraben
Polysorbate 60
Emulsifying, Surfactant
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR B EmulsifyingSurfactant Fungal-acne trigger
Propylene Glycol
Fragrance, Humectant
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR B FragranceHumectantSkin-conditioningagent - miscellaneousSolventViscosity decreasing agentSkin conditioningViscosity controlling Good for Dry Skin
Sorbitan Stearate
Fragrance, Emulsifying
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A FragranceEmulsifyingSurfactant Fungal-acne trigger

How to use

How to use

  • 1 Where it fits: Apply near the end of your routine, after thinner serums.
  • 2 Evening: Use at night — start 2–3× a week and build up as your skin tolerates it.
  • 3 Wear SPF the next day: Acids and retinoids increase sun sensitivity — daily sunscreen is a must while using this.

General guidance from this product's category and active ingredients — always follow the directions on the package.

Trust & honesty

Pregnancy & breastfeeding

Contains ingredients some choose to avoid or double-check while pregnant or nursing.

Often avoided
Retinoids (Vitamin A) (Retinyl Palmitate)

Topical retinoids (retinol, retinaldehyde, retinyl esters) are widely advised against in pregnancy as a precaution. The strongest evidence is for ORAL retinoids; topical absorption is low, but most clinicians err on the side of caution.

This is general information, not medical advice. Pregnancy guidance varies and depends on concentration and your individual situation — always check with your doctor, midwife or pharmacist. How we flag this.

Effective levels — general guide

The concentrations these actives are typically effective at in research — not a measurement of this product.

Retinoids (Vitamin A) 0.01–1%

Most studied between 0.1% and 1%. Higher is not automatically better — irritation climbs with dose, so a well-formulated lower strength is often the sweet spot.

Retinyl Palmitate

INCI lists don't disclose amounts, and we don't claim to know this product's levels — these are the ranges these ingredients are usually effective at, so you can tell a real formula from "fairy-dusting" a marketed active. How we estimate this.

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