Secret sauce

It Cosmetics

Where to buy Possibly in stock

About this product

The It Cosmetics Secret sauce is a emulsion. Our analysis of its 97 ingredients (77 low-risk) rates it Excellent (97/100). Based on its ingredients, it looks well-suited to oily / acne-prone, dry, and sensitive skin. Heads up: it contains fragrance, which can irritate sensitive or reactive skin.

Reef-safe

Summarised from our ingredient analysis — not brand marketing copy.

At a glance

Type
Emulsion
Ingredients
97
Low-risk
77
Fragrance
Contains fragrance

The evidence

Quick Product Notes

Paraben-Free Sulfate-Free Alcohol-Free Silicone-Free EU Allergen-Free Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Safe

Notable Effects & Ingredients

No Notable Effects & Ingredients

Ingredients Related to Skin Types

Good   Bad — tap a skin type to see which ingredients · estimated from ingredient functions
Dry Skin 26/12
Good for dry skin
Algae Extract Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract Glyceryl Stearate Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract Cetyl Ethylhexanoate Squalane Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 Isohexadecane Panax Ginseng Root Extract Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Caprylyl Glycol Butylene Glycol Sodium Hyaluronate Glycerin Cholesteryl Isostearate Palmitic Acid Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil Hydrogenated Polyisobutene Hydrolyzed Collagen Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract Dimethicone Tribehenin PEG-20 Esters Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract Aspergillus/Rice Ferment Extract Aspergillus/Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate Phaseolus Angularis Seed Extract
Caution for dry skin
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer Sorbitan Oleate Stearic Acid Glycerin Colloidal Oatmeal Palmitic Acid Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract Steareth-20 Tribehenin PEG-20 Esters Polysorbate 20 Polysorbate 80 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin 2/0
Good for oily/acne-prone skin
Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Sensitive Skin 20/20
Good for sensitive skin
Hypnea Musciformis Extract Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract Laminaria Japonica Extract Enteromorpha Compressa Extract Spirulina Platensis Extract Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Water Panax Ginseng Root Extract Undaria Pinnatifida Extract Glycerin Colloidal Oatmeal Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract Sophora Japonica Flower Extract Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract Dimethicone Tocopheryl Acetate Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract Laminaria Cloustoni Extract Phaseolus Angularis Seed Extract Lactobacillus/Algae Extract Ferment
Caution for sensitive skin
Algae Extract Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract Laminaria Japonica Extract Myristic Acid Sorbitan Oleate Stearic Acid Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Water Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Butylene Glycol Glycerin Palmitic Acid Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A) Citric Acid Tromethamine Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract Potassium Sorbate PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Phenoxyethanol Fragrance

Ingredients list

97 total
Lower hazard (1) Higher hazard (9)
All97 Skin Conditioning71 Emollient18 Skin Protecting16 Fragrance15 Humectant14 Masking9 Emulsifying9 Hair Conditioning8
EWG CIR Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions Notes
1
A
1,2-Hexanediol
(Solvent)
1
N-Hydroxysuccinimide
(Skin Conditioning)
1
Hypnea Musciformis Extract
(Skin Protecting)
1
Algae Extract
(Fragrance, Humectant, Oral Care Agent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract
(Antioxidant, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Perfuming)
1
Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract
1
Laminaria Japonica Extract
(Fragrance, Skin Protecting)
1
A
Glyceryl Stearate
(Emollient, Emulsifying)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
A
Niacinamide
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing)
1
Enteromorpha Compressa Extract
(Skin Protecting)
1
Diamond powder
(Abrasive)
1
Dunaliella Salina Extract
(Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Disodium EDTA
(Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
1
Syringa Vulgaris (Lilac) Extract
(Skin Conditioning, Tonic)
1
Lactobacillus Ferment
(Skin Conditioning)
1
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
(Antidandruff Agent, Antimicrobial)
1
A
Myristic Acid
(Fragrance, Opacifying, Sufactant, Emulsifying, Perfuming)
Bad for Oily Skin
Bad for Oily Skin
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
Porphyra Yezoensis Extract
(Skin Conditioning)
1
Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract
(Skin Conditioning, Moisturising)
1
B
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
(Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
(Anticaking Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Opacifying, Suspending Agent Nonsurfactant, Viscosity Increasing Agent)
1
A
Sorbitan Oleate
(Fragrance, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
Bad for Oily Skin
Bad for Oily Skin
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
A
Squalane
(Emollient, Hair Conditioning, Refatting, Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Stearic Acid
(Fragrance, Sufactant, Emulsifying, Surfactantsurfactant Cleansing Agent Is Included As A Function For The Soap Form Of Stearic Acid., Emulsion Stabilising, Masking, Refatting)
Bad for Oily Skin
Bad for Oily Skin
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
Spirulina Platensis Extract
(Skin Protecting)
1
Rice Ferment Filtrate (Sake)
(Skin Conditioning)
1
Jania Rubens Extract
(Skin Conditioning)
1
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
(Humectant, Skin Conditioning)
1
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
(Emulsion Stabilising, Film Forming, Viscosity Controlling)
1
B
Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Water
(Fragrance, Masking)
Good for Sensitive Skin
Good for Sensitive Skin
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
1
A
Ethylhexylglycerin
(Deodorant, Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
B
Isohexadecane
(Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Solvent)
1
A
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
(Emollient, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Tonic)
1
Water
(Solvent)
1
Undaria Pinnatifida Extract
(Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting)
1
A
Carbomer
(Emulsion Stabilising, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Gel Forming, Viscosity Controlling)
1
A
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
(Emollient, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Solvent)
1
A
Caprylyl Glycol
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Humectant)
1
A
Butylene Glycol
(Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Solvent, Viscositydecreasing Agent, Humectant, Masking, Viscosity Controlling)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
1
A
Sodium Hyaluronate
(Skin Conditioning, Humectant)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
2
A
Glycerin
(Denaturant, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Humectant, Oral Care Agent, Oral Health Care Drug, Skin Protecting, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Perfuming, Solvent)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
Cholesteryl Oleyl Carbonate
(Skin Conditioning)
1
Cholesteryl Isostearate
(Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling)
1
Cholesteryl Chloride
(Skin Conditioning)
1
Colloidal Oatmeal
(Abrasive, Absorbent, Bulking Agent, Skin Protecting)
1
Chrysin
(Skin Conditioning)
1
Chlorella Minutissima Extract
(Skin Conditioning)
1
Salicornia Herbacea Extract
(Skin Conditioning)
1
Palmitoyl Oligopeptide
(Skin Conditioning, Sufactant)
1
A
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
(Skin Conditioning)
1
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
(Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Palmitic Acid
(Fragrance, Opacifying, Sufactant, Surfactant Emulsifying Agentsurfactant Cleansing Agent Is Included As A Function For The Soap Form Of Palmitic Acid., Emollient)
Bad for Oily Skin
Bad for Oily Skin
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
(Opacifying)
1
A
Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
(Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emollient, Skin Conditioning)
Bad for Oily Skin
Bad for Oily Skin
1
A
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
(Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
1
Hydrolyzed Algae Extract
(Skin Conditioning)
1
Hydrolyzed Ulva Lactuca Extract
(Skin Conditioning)
1
Hydrolyzed Malt Extract
(Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Hydrolyzed Collagen
(Hair Conditioning, Nail Conditioning Agent, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Emollient, Film Forming, Humectant)
1
Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract
(Antioxidant)
1
Sophora Japonica Flower Extract
(Skin Protecting)
1
A
Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C)
(Antioxidant, Fragrance, Ph Adjuster, Skin Conditioning, Buffering Agent, Masking)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
1
Tocopherol (Vitamin E) Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
9
Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A) Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
2
A
Citric Acid
(Chelating Agent, Fragrance, Ph Adjuster, Buffering Agent, Masking)
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
2
A
Chlorphenesin
(Cosmetic Biocide, Antimicrobial, Preservative)
2
A
Tromethamine
(Fragrance, Ph Adjuster, Buffering Agent, Masking)
1
B
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
(Antimicrobial, Antioxidant, Astringent, Emollient, Humectant, Masking, Oral Care Agent, Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Tonic, Uv Absorber)
Good for Oily Skin
Good for Oily Skin
3
A
Dimethicone
(Antifoaming Agent, Skin Protecting, Emollient, Skin Conditioning)
Silicone
Silicone
3
B
Steareth-20
(Sufactant, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
3
Tocopheryl Acetate
(Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning)
Bad for Oily Skin
Bad for Oily Skin
3
Tribehenin PEG-20 Esters
(Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
3
A
Potassium Sorbate
(Fragrance, Preservative)
3
B
Polysorbate 20
(Emulsifying, Surfactant)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
3
B
Polysorbate 80
(Denaturant, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
3
B
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
(Fragrance, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Perfuming)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
4
B
Chlorhexidine Digluconate
(Cosmetic Biocide, Oral Care Agent, Preservative, Antimicrobial)
4
A
Phenoxyethanol
(Fragrance, Preservative)
Paraben
Paraben
8
Fragrance
(Deodorant, Masking, Perfuming)
Ecklonia Cava Extract
(Skin Conditioning)
Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment Filtrate
(Film Forming, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract
(Skin Conditioning)
Sargassum Fulvellum Extract
(Skin Conditioning)
1
3
B
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
(Emollient, Humectant, Oral Care Agent, Skin Conditioning)
Good for Sensitive Skin
Good for Sensitive Skin
Aspergillus/Rice Ferment Extract
(Humectant, Skin Conditioning)
Aspergillus/Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate
(Humectant, Skin Conditioning)
Macrocystis Pyrifera (Kelp) Protein
Codium Fragile Extract
(Skin Conditioning)
Laminaria Cloustoni Extract
(Skin Protecting)
Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Fruit Extract
Chlorella Ferment
(Skin Conditioning)
Hizikia Fusiforme Extract
(Skin Conditioning)
Phaseolus Angularis Seed Extract
(Antioxidant, Emollient, Hair Conditioning, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting)
Saccharomyces/Camellia Sinensis Extract Ferment Filtrate
(Skin Conditioning)
Lactobacillus/Dipteryx Odorata Seed Ferment Filtrate
(Skin Conditioning)
Lactobacillus/Algae Extract Ferment
(Skin Protecting)

My Ingredient Notes

No personal ingredient notes yet. Save ingredients to your profile to get good/bad alerts here.

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Key ingredients

N-Hydroxysuccinimide
Skin Conditioning
Hypnea Musciformis Extract
Skin Protecting
Algae Extract
Humectant, Skin Conditioning
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract
Antioxidant, Humectant
Laminaria Japonica Extract
Skin Protecting
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient

Benefits

Good for dry skin
Good for oily/acne-prone skin

Concerns

Contains paraben
Contains silicone
Not fungal acne (malassezia) safe
Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A) — higher EWG
Fragrance — higher EWG

EWG flags hazard, not real-world risk — ratings don't account for how much of an ingredient a product contains. Treat these as things to research, not verdicts. How we score →

Ingredients explained

1,2-Hexanediol
Solvent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Solvent
N-Hydroxysuccinimide
Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Skin conditioning
Hypnea Musciformis Extract
Skin protecting
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Skin protecting
Algae Extract
Fragrance, Humectant
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 FragranceHumectantOral care agentSkin conditioningEmollient
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract
Antioxidant, Humectant
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 AntioxidantHumectantSkin conditioningPerfuming
Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract
Other
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1
Laminaria Japonica Extract
Fragrance, Skin protecting
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 FragranceSkin protecting
Niacinamide
Hair conditioning, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Hair conditioningSkin conditioningSmoothing
Enteromorpha Compressa Extract
Skin protecting
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Skin protecting
Diamond powder
Abrasive
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Abrasive
Dunaliella Salina Extract
Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Skin conditioning
Disodium EDTA
Chelating agent, Viscosity controlling
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Chelating agentViscosity controlling
Syringa Vulgaris (Lilac) Extract
Skin conditioning, Tonic
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Skin conditioningTonic
Lactobacillus Ferment
Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Skin conditioning
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Antidandruff agent, Antimicrobial
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Antidandruff agentAntimicrobial
+ 58 more — see the full ingredients list above
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient, Emulsifying
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A EmollientEmulsifying Fungal-acne trigger
Myristic Acid
Fragrance, Opacifying
Potentially comedogenic - can block poresRead moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A FragranceOpacifyingSufactantEmulsifyingPerfuming Bad for Oily SkinFungal-acne trigger
Sorbitan Oleate
Fragrance, Emulsifying
Potentially comedogenic - can block poresRead moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A FragranceEmulsifyingSurfactant Bad for Oily SkinFungal-acne trigger
Stearic Acid
Fragrance, Sufactant
Potentially comedogenic - can block poresRead moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A FragranceSufactantEmulsifyingSurfactantsurfactant-cleansing agent is included as a function for the soap form of stearic acid.Emulsion stabilisingMaskingRefatting Bad for Oily SkinFungal-acne trigger
Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Water
Fragrance, Masking
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR B FragranceMasking Good for Sensitive SkinGood for Dry Skin
Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil
Other
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Fungal-acne trigger
Butylene Glycol
Fragrance, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A FragranceSkin conditioningSolventViscositydecreasing agentHumectantMaskingViscosity controlling Good for Dry Skin
Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin conditioning, Humectant
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Skin conditioningHumectant Good for Dry Skin
Glycerin
Denaturant, Fragrance
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 2 CIR A DenaturantFragranceHair conditioningHumectantOral care agentOral health care drugSkin protectingViscosity decreasing agentPerfumingSolvent Good for Dry SkinFungal-acne trigger
Palmitic Acid
Fragrance, Opacifying
Potentially comedogenic - can block poresRead moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A FragranceOpacifyingSufactantSurfactant -emulsifying agentsurfactant-cleansing agent is included as a function for the soap form of palmitic acid.Emollient Bad for Oily SkinFungal-acne trigger
Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Viscosity increasing agent, Emollient
Potentially comedogenic - can block poresRead moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Viscosity increasing agentEmollientSkin conditioning Bad for Oily Skin
Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C)
Antioxidant, Fragrance
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A AntioxidantFragrancePh adjusterSkin conditioningBuffering agentMasking Good for Dry Skin
Tocopherol (Vitamin E)
Other
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Good for Dry Skin
Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A)
Other
Higher-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 9 Good for Dry SkinFungal-acne trigger
Citric Acid
Chelating agent, Fragrance
Skin irritation can occur at high concentrationRead moreShow less
EWG 2 CIR A Chelating agentFragrancePh adjusterBuffering agentMasking Bad for Sensitive Skin
+ 9 more — see the full ingredients list above

How to use

How to use

  • 1 Morning only: Apply as the last step of your AM routine, after moisturiser, and reapply every ~2 hours of sun exposure.
  • 2 Wear SPF the next day: Acids and retinoids increase sun sensitivity — daily sunscreen is a must while using this.

General guidance from this product's category and active ingredients — always follow the directions on the package.

Trust & honesty

Pregnancy & breastfeeding

Contains ingredients some choose to avoid or double-check while pregnant or nursing.

Often avoided
Retinoids (Vitamin A) (Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A))

Topical retinoids (retinol, retinaldehyde, retinyl esters) are widely advised against in pregnancy as a precaution. The strongest evidence is for ORAL retinoids; topical absorption is low, but most clinicians err on the side of caution.

This is general information, not medical advice. Pregnancy guidance varies and depends on concentration and your individual situation — always check with your doctor, midwife or pharmacist. How we flag this.

Effective levels — general guide

The concentrations these actives are typically effective at in research — not a measurement of this product.

Retinoids (Vitamin A) 0.01–1%

Most studied between 0.1% and 1%. Higher is not automatically better — irritation climbs with dose, so a well-formulated lower strength is often the sweet spot.

Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A)

Vitamin C (ascorbic) 5–20%

L-ascorbic acid is usually used at 5–20% (around 10–15% is common). Above ~20% adds little and tends to irritate more; it also needs a low pH to work.

Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C)

Niacinamide 2–5% (up to 10%)

Most research uses 2–5%; some formulas go to 10%. Very high levels can cause flushing in sensitive skin.

Niacinamide

INCI lists don't disclose amounts, and we don't claim to know this product's levels — these are the ranges these ingredients are usually effective at, so you can tell a real formula from "fairy-dusting" a marketed active. How we estimate this.

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