Glow Water Intense with Vitamin C & PHA + AHA Booster - Retinol Alternative

Martha-Jane's Apothecary

Glow Water Intense with Vitamin C & PHA + AHA Booster - Retinol Alternative

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About this product

The Martha-Jane's Apothecary Glow Water Intense with Vitamin C & PHA + AHA Booster - Retinol Alternative is a serums, essence, ampoule. Our analysis of its 57 ingredients (44 low-risk) rates it Excellent (99/100). Based on its ingredients, it looks well-suited to oily / acne-prone and dry skin.

Reef-safe

Summarised from our ingredient analysis — not brand marketing copy.

At a glance

Type
Serums, Essence, Ampoules
Ingredients
57
Low-risk
44
Fragrance
Fragrance-free
Origin
United States

The evidence

Quick Product Notes

Paraben-Free Sulfate-Free Alcohol-Free Silicone-Free EU Allergen-Free Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Safe

Notable Effects & Ingredients

No Notable Effects & Ingredients

Ingredients Related to Skin Types

Good   Bad — tap a skin type to see which ingredients · estimated from ingredient functions
Dry Skin 16/3
Good for dry skin
Gluconolactone Honey Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil Inositol Inulin Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Butylene Glycol Sodium PCA Glycerin Propylene Glycol Histidine Sodium Lactate Lactic Acid Lecithin Streptococcus Thermophilus Ferment Theanine
Caution for dry skin
Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract Glycerin Lecithin
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin 1/0
Good for oily/acne-prone skin
Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract
Sensitive Skin 5/17
Good for sensitive skin
Sodium Ascorbate Calcium Ascorbate Glycerin Ferulic Acid Allantoin
Caution for sensitive skin
Galactoarabinan Glycine Gluconolactone Lysine Valine Arginine Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Butylene Glycol Glycerin Propylene Glycol Tyrosine Threonine Phenylalanine Proline Histidine Citric Acid Lactic Acid

Ingredients list

57 total
Lower hazard (1) Higher hazard (4)
All57 Skin Conditioning60 Fragrance19 Humectant17 Hair Conditioning17 Antistatic Agent13 Solvent7 Masking6 Antioxidant6
EWG CIR Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions Notes
1
Water
(Solvent)
1
Propanediol
(Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
2
A
Glycerin
(Denaturant, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Humectant, Oral Care Agent, Oral Health Care Drug, Skin Protecting, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Perfuming, Solvent)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
A
Butylene Glycol
(Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Solvent, Viscositydecreasing Agent, Humectant, Masking, Viscosity Controlling)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
3
B
Sodium Lactate
(Buffering Agent, Exfoliant, Humectant, Keratolytic)
Lactobacillus
(Skin Conditioning)
Oryza sativa bran oil
(Skin Conditioning, Skin Conditioning Emollient)
1
Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil
(Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1
A
Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent)
1
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
(Antidandruff Agent, Antimicrobial)
Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Skin Conditioning Emollient)
4
B
Lactic Acid
(Exfoliant, Fragrance, Humectant, Ph Adjuster, Skin Conditioning Agent Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Buffering Agent)
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Herniaria Glabra Extract
(Skin Conditioning)
1
Phyllanthus Emblica Extract
(Skin Conditioning)
Camellia Sinensis Extract
(Antioxidant, Bleaching, Skin Conditioning)
3
B
Propylene Glycol
(Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioningagent Miscellaneous, Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
1
B
Sodium PCA
(Hair Conditioning, Humectant, Antistatic Agent, Skin Conditioning)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
1
A
Beta-Glucan
(Bulking Agent, Skin Conditioning)
1
Acetyl Glucosamine
(Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Allantoin
(Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Soothing)
Good for Oily Skin
Good for Oily Skin
Good for Sensitive Skin
Good for Sensitive Skin
1
Tripeptide-29
(Skin Conditioning)
2
Ferulic Acid
(Antioxidant, Preservative, Uv Absorber, Antimicrobial)
1
A
Arginine
(Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Masking)
1
B
Carnitine
(Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Sufactant, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
1
A
Glycine
(Buffering Agent, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning Agent Miscellaneous, Antistatic Agent, Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Histidine
(Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Humectant)
1
A
Leucine
(Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Lysine
(Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent)
1
A
Phenylalanine
(Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Proline
(Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
Theanine
(Emollient, Humectant, Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Threonine
(Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Hair Waving Or Straightening)
1
A
Tyrosine
(Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Proprietary, Skin Conditioning Agent Miscellaneous, Antistatic Agent, Masking, Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Valine
(Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Masking)
ASCORBIC ACID
(Antioxidant, Buffering, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Sodium Ascorbate
(Antioxidant)
1
A
Calcium Ascorbate
(Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning)
1
Saccharomyces Lysate
(Skin Conditioning)
1
Lactobacillus Ferment
(Skin Conditioning)
1
Bifida Ferment Lysate
(Skin Conditioning)
Streptococcus Thermophilus Ferment
(Humectant, Skin Conditioning)
1
Phytic Acid
(Chelating Agent, Oral Care Agent)
1
A
Inulin
(Humectant, Skin Conditioning)
1
Inositol
(Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning, Humectant)
TOCOPHEROL
(Antioxidant, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Tocotrienols
(Oral Care Agent, Skin Conditioning, Uv Absorber)
1
Poncirus Trifoliata Fruit Extract
(Skin Conditioning)
1
Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract
(Astringent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
1
Honey
(Flavoring Agent, Humectant, Emollient, Moisturising)
1
A
Galactoarabinan
(Film Forming, Fragrance)
1
Gluconolactone
(Fragrance, Humectant, Solvent)
Tribulus Terrestris Extract
(Skin Conditioning)
2
3
Lecithin
(Skin Conditioning, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Antistatic Agent, Emollient)
VITIS VINIFERA SEED OIL
(Skin Conditioning, Skin Conditioning Emollient)
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
(Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Skin Conditioning Emollient)
1
A
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
(Emollient, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Solvent)
2
A
Citric Acid
(Chelating Agent, Fragrance, Ph Adjuster, Buffering Agent, Masking)
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin

My Ingredient Notes

No personal ingredient notes yet. Save ingredients to your profile to get good/bad alerts here.

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Key ingredients

Glycerin
Humectant, Skin Protecting
Butylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning, Humectant
Sodium Lactate
Exfoliant, Humectant
Lactobacillus
Skin Conditioning
Oryza sativa bran oil
Skin Conditioning
Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil
Skin Conditioning, Emollient

Benefits

Good for dry skin
Good for oily/acne-prone skin

Concerns

Not fungal acne (malassezia) safe
May not suit sensitive skin

Ingredients explained

Water
Solvent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Solvent
Propanediol
Solvent, Viscosity decreasing agent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 SolventViscosity decreasing agentViscosity controlling
Sodium Lactate
Buffering agent, Exfoliant
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR B Buffering agentExfoliantHumectantKeratolytic
Lactobacillus
Skin conditioning
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A Skin conditioning
Oryza sativa bran oil
Skin conditioning, Skin conditioning emollient
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A Skin conditioningSkin conditioning emollient
Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil
Skin conditioning, Emollient
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Skin conditioningEmollient
Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
Hair conditioning, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Hair conditioningSkin conditioningAntistatic agent
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Antidandruff agent, Antimicrobial
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Antidandruff agentAntimicrobial
Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract
Hair conditioning, Skin conditioning
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A Hair conditioningSkin conditioningSkin conditioning emollient
Herniaria Glabra Extract
Skin conditioning
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A Skin conditioning
Phyllanthus Emblica Extract
Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Skin conditioning
Camellia Sinensis Extract
Antioxidant, Bleaching
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A AntioxidantBleachingSkin conditioning
Beta-Glucan
Bulking agent, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Bulking agentSkin conditioning
Acetyl Glucosamine
Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Skin conditioning
Tripeptide-29
Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Skin conditioning
+ 35 more — see the full ingredients list above
Glycerin
Denaturant, Fragrance
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 2 CIR A DenaturantFragranceHair conditioningHumectantOral care agentOral health care drugSkin protectingViscosity decreasing agentPerfumingSolvent Good for Dry SkinFungal-acne trigger
Butylene Glycol
Fragrance, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A FragranceSkin conditioningSolventViscositydecreasing agentHumectantMaskingViscosity controlling Good for Dry Skin
Lactic Acid
Exfoliant, Fragrance
Skin irritation can occur at high concentrationRead moreShow less
EWG 4 CIR B ExfoliantFragranceHumectantPh adjusterSkin-conditioning agent -humectantSkin conditioningBuffering agent Bad for Sensitive Skin
Propylene Glycol
Fragrance, Humectant
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR B FragranceHumectantSkin-conditioningagent - miscellaneousSolventViscosity decreasing agentSkin conditioningViscosity controlling Good for Dry Skin
Sodium PCA
Hair conditioning, Humectant
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR B Hair conditioningHumectantAntistatic agentSkin conditioning Good for Dry Skin
Allantoin
Skin conditioning, Skin protecting
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Skin conditioningSkin protectingSoothing Good for Oily SkinGood for Sensitive Skin
Citric Acid
Chelating agent, Fragrance
Skin irritation can occur at high concentrationRead moreShow less
EWG 2 CIR A Chelating agentFragrancePh adjusterBuffering agentMasking Bad for Sensitive Skin

How to use

How to use

  • 1 Where it fits: Apply after toner and before moisturiser — thinnest to thickest.
  • 2 Morning only: Apply as the last step of your AM routine, after moisturiser, and reapply every ~2 hours of sun exposure.
  • 3 Wear SPF the next day: Acids and retinoids increase sun sensitivity — daily sunscreen is a must while using this.

General guidance from this product's category and active ingredients — always follow the directions on the package.

Trust & honesty

Effective levels — general guide

The concentrations these actives are typically effective at in research — not a measurement of this product.

Vitamin C (ascorbic) 5–20%

L-ascorbic acid is usually used at 5–20% (around 10–15% is common). Above ~20% adds little and tends to irritate more; it also needs a low pH to work.

ASCORBIC ACID, Sodium Ascorbate, Calcium Ascorbate

AHA (acid exfoliant) 5–10% (OTC)

OTC leave-on AHAs are usually 5–10%. The effect also depends on pH and free-acid value, not the percentage alone.

Lactic Acid

INCI lists don't disclose amounts, and we don't claim to know this product's levels — these are the ranges these ingredients are usually effective at, so you can tell a real formula from "fairy-dusting" a marketed active. How we estimate this.

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