Merle Norman Age-Defying Serum

Merle Norman

Where to buy Possibly in stock

About this product

The Merle Norman Age-Defying Serum is a serums, essence, ampoule. Our analysis of its 41 ingredients (38 low-risk) rates it Excellent (95/100). Based on its ingredients, it looks well-suited to oily / acne-prone and dry skin.

Vegan-friendly Reef-safe

Summarised from our ingredient analysis — not brand marketing copy.

At a glance

Type
Serums, Essence, Ampoules
Ingredients
41
Low-risk
38
Fragrance
Fragrance-free
Origin
United States

The evidence

Quick Product Notes

Paraben-Free Sulfate-Free Alcohol-Free Silicone-Free EU Allergen-Free Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Safe

Notable Effects & Ingredients

No Notable Effects & Ingredients

Ingredients Related to Skin Types

Good   Bad — tap a skin type to see which ingredients · estimated from ingredient functions
Dry Skin 14/10
Good for dry skin
Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract Isohexadecane Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Caprylyl Glycol Butylene Glycol Glycerin Propylene Glycol Coco-Caprylate/Caprate Acetyl Hexapeptide-3 Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract Dimethicone PEG-20 Almond Glycerides PEG-8
Caution for dry skin
Ruscus Aculeatus Root Extract Punica Granatum Extract Xanthan Gum Glycerin Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract Steareth-2 Steareth-21 PEG-20 Almond Glycerides PEG-40 Stearate PEG-20 Glyceryl Oleate
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin 3/1
Good for oily/acne-prone skin
Ruscus Aculeatus Root Extract Punica Granatum Extract Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Caution for oily/acne-prone skin
Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract
Sensitive Skin 10/12
Good for sensitive skin
Ruscus Aculeatus Root Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Ascorbyl Palmitate Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract Glycerin Symphytum Officinale Root Extract Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract Dimethicone Tocopheryl Acetate
Caution for sensitive skin
Punica Granatum Extract Ascorbyl Palmitate Algin Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Butylene Glycol Glycerin Propylene Glycol Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A) Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract Methylisothiazolinone

Ingredients list

41 total
Lower hazard (1) Higher hazard (9)
All41 Skin Conditioning35 Humectant9 Solvent8 Emollient8 Masking7 Viscosity Controlling6 Emulsifying5 Surfactant5
EWG CIR Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions Notes
1
Water
(Solvent)
1
A
Biosaccharide Gum-1
(Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Pentylene Glycol
(Skin Conditioning, Solvent)
PEG-20 Glyceryl Oleate
(Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1
A
Butylene Glycol
(Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Solvent, Viscositydecreasing Agent, Humectant, Masking, Viscosity Controlling)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
3
A
PEG-8
(Humectant, Solvent)
3
PEG-20 Almond Glycerides
(Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
2
A
Glycerin
(Denaturant, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Humectant, Oral Care Agent, Oral Health Care Drug, Skin Protecting, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Perfuming, Solvent)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
9
Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A) Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
A
Ascorbyl Palmitate
(Antioxidant, Masking)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
3
Tocopheryl Acetate
(Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning)
Bad for Oily Skin
Bad for Oily Skin
1
B
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
(Antimicrobial, Antioxidant, Astringent, Emollient, Humectant, Masking, Oral Care Agent, Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Tonic, Uv Absorber)
Good for Oily Skin
Good for Oily Skin
1
Punica Granatum Extract
(Astringent, Masking, Tonic)
1
Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract
(Skin Conditioning)
1
Palmitoyl Oligopeptide
(Skin Conditioning, Sufactant)
1
Acetyl Hexapeptide-3
(Humectant)
1
Ruscus Aculeatus Root Extract
(Astringent, Refreshing, Skin Conditioning, Soothing, Stabilising, Tonic)
1
B
Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract
(Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Skin Conditioning Agent Occlusive, Perfuming)
Good for Sensitive Skin
Good for Sensitive Skin
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
1
A
Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract
(Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
1
A
Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract
(Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning)
1
Symphytum Officinale Root Extract
(Antidandruff Agent, Skin Conditioning, Soothing)
1
Cola Acuminata Seed Extract
(Skin Conditioning)
1
Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract
(Refreshing, Skin Conditioning, Soothing, Tonic)
1
Arctium Lappa Root Extract
(Skin Conditioning)
3
A
Dimethicone
(Antifoaming Agent, Skin Protecting, Emollient, Skin Conditioning)
Silicone
Silicone
1
A
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
(Emollient, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Solvent)
1
B
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
(Emollient, Skin Conditioning)
1
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
(Opacifying)
1
A
Phospholipids
(Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Algin
(Binding Agent, Fragrance, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Binding, Masking, Viscosity Controlling)
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Bad for Oily Skin
Bad for Oily Skin
1
A
Caprylyl Glycol
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Humectant)
3
B
Propylene Glycol
(Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioningagent Miscellaneous, Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
1
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate
(Film Forming, Viscosity Controlling)
1
B
Isohexadecane
(Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Solvent)
1
A
Cetearyl Methicone
(Skin Conditioning)
Silicone
Silicone
3
B
Steareth-2
(Emulsifying, Surfactant)
3
B
Steareth-21
(Sufactant, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
3
A
PEG-40 Stearate
(Emulsifying, Surfactant)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
A
Xanthan Gum
(Binding Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Skin Conditioning, Surfactant Emulsifying Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Binding, Gel Forming, Viscosity Controlling)
1
A
Disodium EDTA
(Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
7
B
Methylisothiazolinone
(Preservative)

My Ingredient Notes

No personal ingredient notes yet. Save ingredients to your profile to get good/bad alerts here.

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Key ingredients

Biosaccharide Gum-1
Skin Conditioning
Pentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning
Butylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning, Humectant
PEG-8
Humectant
PEG-20 Almond Glycerides
Skin Conditioning, Emollient
Glycerin
Humectant, Skin Protecting

Benefits

Good for dry skin
Good for oily/acne-prone skin

Concerns

Contains silicone
Not fungal acne (malassezia) safe
Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A) — higher EWG
Methylisothiazolinone — higher EWG
May not suit sensitive skin

EWG flags hazard, not real-world risk — ratings don't account for how much of an ingredient a product contains. Treat these as things to research, not verdicts. How we score →

Ingredients explained

Water
Solvent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Solvent
Biosaccharide Gum-1
Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Skin conditioning
Pentylene Glycol
Skin conditioning, Solvent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Skin conditioningSolvent
PEG-20 Glyceryl Oleate
Emulsifying, Surfactant
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A EmulsifyingSurfactant
PEG-8
Humectant, Solvent
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR A HumectantSolvent
PEG-20 Almond Glycerides
Skin conditioning, Emollient
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 Skin conditioningEmollientEmulsifyingSurfactant
Punica Granatum Extract
Astringent, Masking
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 AstringentMaskingTonic
Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract
Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Skin conditioning
Palmitoyl Oligopeptide
Skin conditioning, Sufactant
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Skin conditioningSufactant
Acetyl Hexapeptide-3
Humectant
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Humectant
Ruscus Aculeatus Root Extract
Astringent, Refreshing
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 AstringentRefreshingSkin conditioningSoothingStabilisingTonic
Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract
Masking, Perfuming
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A MaskingPerfumingSkin conditioning
Symphytum Officinale Root Extract
Antidandruff agent, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Antidandruff agentSkin conditioningSoothing
Cola Acuminata Seed Extract
Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Skin conditioning
Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract
Refreshing, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 RefreshingSkin conditioningSoothingTonic
+ 12 more — see the full ingredients list above
Butylene Glycol
Fragrance, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A FragranceSkin conditioningSolventViscositydecreasing agentHumectantMaskingViscosity controlling Good for Dry Skin
Glycerin
Denaturant, Fragrance
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 2 CIR A DenaturantFragranceHair conditioningHumectantOral care agentOral health care drugSkin protectingViscosity decreasing agentPerfumingSolvent Good for Dry SkinFungal-acne trigger
Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A)
Other
Higher-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 9 Good for Dry SkinFungal-acne trigger
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Antioxidant, Masking
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A AntioxidantMasking Fungal-acne trigger
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant, Skin conditioning
Potentially comedogenic - can block poresRead moreShow less
EWG 3 AntioxidantSkin conditioning Bad for Oily Skin
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Antimicrobial, Antioxidant
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR B AntimicrobialAntioxidantAstringentEmollientHumectantMaskingOral care agentSkin conditioningSkin protectingTonicUv absorber Good for Oily Skin
Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract
Fragrance, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR B FragranceSkin conditioningSkin-conditioning agent -occlusivePerfuming Good for Sensitive SkinGood for Dry Skin
Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract
Skin conditioning, Emollient
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Skin conditioningEmollient Good for Dry Skin
Dimethicone
Antifoaming agent, Skin protecting
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR A Antifoaming agentSkin protectingEmollientSkin conditioning Silicone
Algin
Binding agent, Fragrance
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Binding agentFragranceViscosity increasing agentBindingMaskingViscosity controlling Bad for Sensitive SkinBad for Oily Skin
Propylene Glycol
Fragrance, Humectant
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR B FragranceHumectantSkin-conditioningagent - miscellaneousSolventViscosity decreasing agentSkin conditioningViscosity controlling Good for Dry Skin
Cetearyl Methicone
Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Skin conditioning Silicone
PEG-40 Stearate
Emulsifying, Surfactant
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR A EmulsifyingSurfactant Fungal-acne trigger
Methylisothiazolinone
Preservative
Higher-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 7 CIR B Preservative

How to use

How to use

  • 1 Where it fits: Apply after toner and before moisturiser — thinnest to thickest.
  • 2 Morning only: Apply as the last step of your AM routine, after moisturiser, and reapply every ~2 hours of sun exposure.
  • 3 Wear SPF the next day: Acids and retinoids increase sun sensitivity — daily sunscreen is a must while using this.

General guidance from this product's category and active ingredients — always follow the directions on the package.

Trust & honesty

Pregnancy & breastfeeding

Contains ingredients some choose to avoid or double-check while pregnant or nursing.

Often avoided
Retinoids (Vitamin A) (Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A))

Topical retinoids (retinol, retinaldehyde, retinyl esters) are widely advised against in pregnancy as a precaution. The strongest evidence is for ORAL retinoids; topical absorption is low, but most clinicians err on the side of caution.

This is general information, not medical advice. Pregnancy guidance varies and depends on concentration and your individual situation — always check with your doctor, midwife or pharmacist. How we flag this.

Effective levels — general guide

The concentrations these actives are typically effective at in research — not a measurement of this product.

Retinoids (Vitamin A) 0.01–1%

Most studied between 0.1% and 1%. Higher is not automatically better — irritation climbs with dose, so a well-formulated lower strength is often the sweet spot.

Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A)

Vitamin C (ascorbic) 5–20%

L-ascorbic acid is usually used at 5–20% (around 10–15% is common). Above ~20% adds little and tends to irritate more; it also needs a low pH to work.

Ascorbyl Palmitate

INCI lists don't disclose amounts, and we don't claim to know this product's levels — these are the ranges these ingredients are usually effective at, so you can tell a real formula from "fairy-dusting" a marketed active. How we estimate this.

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