Merle Norman AHA Intensive Complex

Merle Norman

Merle Norman AHA Intensive Complex

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About this product

The Merle Norman AHA Intensive Complex is a treatment. Our analysis of its 21 ingredients (14 low-risk) rates it Excellent (85/100). Based on its ingredients, it looks well-suited to oily / acne-prone and dry skin. Heads up: it contains fragrance, which can irritate sensitive or reactive skin.

Vegan-friendly Reef-safe

Summarised from our ingredient analysis — not brand marketing copy.

At a glance

Type
Treatments
Ingredients
21
Low-risk
14
Fragrance
Contains fragrance
Origin
United States

The evidence

Quick Product Notes

Paraben-Free Sulfate-Free Alcohol-Free Silicone-Free EU Allergen-Free Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Safe

Notable Effects & Ingredients

No Notable Effects & Ingredients

Ingredients Related to Skin Types

Good   Bad — tap a skin type to see which ingredients · estimated from ingredient functions
Dry Skin 8/5
Good for dry skin
C13-14 Isoparaffin Saccharide Isomerate Cetyl Ethylhexanoate Butylene Glycol Glycerin Cyclohexasiloxane Cyclopentasiloxane Lactic Acid
Caution for dry skin
Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Glycerin Laureth-7 Triethanolamine Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit/Leaf Extract
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin 2/0
Good for oily/acne-prone skin
Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit/Leaf Extract
Sensitive Skin 4/6
Good for sensitive skin
Citrus Sinensis (Orange) Fruit Extract Glycerin Tocopheryl Acetate Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract
Caution for sensitive skin
Butylene Glycol Glycerin Lactic Acid Phenoxyethanol Triethanolamine Fragrance

Ingredients list

21 total
Lower hazard (1) Higher hazard (8)
All21 Skin Conditioning14 Solvent6 Fragrance5 Humectant5 Emollient4 Hair Conditioning3 Masking3 Preservative2
EWG CIR Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions Notes
1
Water
(Solvent)
4
B
Lactic Acid
(Exfoliant, Fragrance, Humectant, Ph Adjuster, Skin Conditioning Agent Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Buffering Agent)
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
3
A
Cyclopentasiloxane
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Solvent)
Silicone
Silicone
1
A
Butylene Glycol
(Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Solvent, Viscositydecreasing Agent, Humectant, Masking, Viscosity Controlling)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
2
A
Glycerin
(Denaturant, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Humectant, Oral Care Agent, Oral Health Care Drug, Skin Protecting, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Perfuming, Solvent)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
2
A
Cyclohexasiloxane
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Solvent)
4
B
Polyacrylamide
(Binding Agent, Film Forming, Hair Fixing, Antistatic Agent, Binding)
1
B
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
(Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
5
B
Triethanolamine
(Fragrance, Ph Adjuster, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Buffering Agent, Masking)
Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit/Leaf Extract
(Astringent, Refreshing, Skin Conditioning, Tonic)
1
B
C13-14 Isoparaffin
(Emollient, Solvent)
1
Saccharide Isomerate
(Humectant)
2
B
Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract Good for Oily Skin
Good for Oily Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
1
Citrus Sinensis (Orange) Fruit Extract
(Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning)
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
1
Acer Saccharum (Sugar Maple) Extract
(Keratolytic)
1
Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract
(Astringent, Skin Conditioning)
3
Tocopheryl Acetate
(Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning)
Bad for Oily Skin
Bad for Oily Skin
3
B
Laureth-7
(Emulsifying, Surfactant)
8
Fragrance
(Deodorant, Masking, Perfuming)
4
A
Phenoxyethanol
(Fragrance, Preservative)
Paraben
Paraben
6
B
Diazolidinyl Urea
(Preservative)

My Ingredient Notes

No personal ingredient notes yet. Save ingredients to your profile to get good/bad alerts here.

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Key ingredients

Lactic Acid
Exfoliant, Humectant
Cyclopentasiloxane
Skin Conditioning, Emollient
Butylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning, Humectant
Glycerin
Humectant, Skin Protecting
Cyclohexasiloxane
Skin Conditioning, Emollient
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
Skin Conditioning, Emollient

Benefits

Good for dry skin
Good for oily/acne-prone skin

Concerns

Contains paraben
Contains silicone
Not fungal acne (malassezia) safe
Fragrance — higher EWG
May not suit sensitive skin

EWG flags hazard, not real-world risk — ratings don't account for how much of an ingredient a product contains. Treat these as things to research, not verdicts. How we score →

Ingredients explained

Water
Solvent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Solvent
Cyclohexasiloxane
Hair conditioning, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 2 CIR A Hair conditioningSkin conditioningEmollientSolvent
Polyacrylamide
Binding agent, Film forming
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 4 CIR B Binding agentFilm formingHair fixingAntistatic agentBinding
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
Skin conditioning, Emollient
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR B Skin conditioningEmollient
Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit/Leaf Extract
Astringent, Refreshing
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A AstringentRefreshingSkin conditioningTonic
C13-14 Isoparaffin
Emollient, Solvent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR B EmollientSolvent
Saccharide Isomerate
Humectant
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Humectant
Acer Saccharum (Sugar Maple) Extract
Keratolytic
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Keratolytic
Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract
Astringent, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 AstringentSkin conditioning
Laureth-7
Emulsifying, Surfactant
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR B EmulsifyingSurfactant
Lactic Acid
Exfoliant, Fragrance
Skin irritation can occur at high concentrationRead moreShow less
EWG 4 CIR B ExfoliantFragranceHumectantPh adjusterSkin-conditioning agent -humectantSkin conditioningBuffering agent Bad for Sensitive Skin
Cyclopentasiloxane
Hair conditioning, Skin conditioning
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR A Hair conditioningSkin conditioningEmollientSolvent Silicone
Butylene Glycol
Fragrance, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A FragranceSkin conditioningSolventViscositydecreasing agentHumectantMaskingViscosity controlling Good for Dry Skin
Glycerin
Denaturant, Fragrance
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 2 CIR A DenaturantFragranceHair conditioningHumectantOral care agentOral health care drugSkin protectingViscosity decreasing agentPerfumingSolvent Good for Dry SkinFungal-acne trigger
Triethanolamine
Fragrance, Ph adjuster
Moderate-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 5 CIR B FragrancePh adjusterEmulsifyingSurfactantBuffering agentMasking
Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract
Other
Excessively acidic, potentially irritatingRead moreShow less
EWG 2 CIR B Good for Oily SkinBad for Sensitive Skin
Citrus Sinensis (Orange) Fruit Extract
Antioxidant, Skin conditioning
Excessively acidic, potentially irritatingRead moreShow less
EWG 1 AntioxidantSkin conditioning Bad for Sensitive Skin
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant, Skin conditioning
Potentially comedogenic - can block poresRead moreShow less
EWG 3 AntioxidantSkin conditioning Bad for Oily Skin
Fragrance
Deodorant, Masking
Higher-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 8 DeodorantMaskingPerfuming
Phenoxyethanol
Fragrance, Preservative
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 4 CIR A FragrancePreservative Paraben
Diazolidinyl Urea
Preservative
Moderate-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 6 CIR B Preservative

How to use

How to use

  • 1 Where it fits: Apply after toner and before moisturiser — thinnest to thickest.
  • 2 Evening, start slow: Best in the PM a few times a week to begin with; avoid layering with other strong actives the same night.
  • 3 Wear SPF the next day: Acids and retinoids increase sun sensitivity — daily sunscreen is a must while using this.

General guidance from this product's category and active ingredients — always follow the directions on the package.

Trust & honesty

Effective levels — general guide

The concentrations these actives are typically effective at in research — not a measurement of this product.

AHA (acid exfoliant) 5–10% (OTC)

OTC leave-on AHAs are usually 5–10%. The effect also depends on pH and free-acid value, not the percentage alone.

Lactic Acid

INCI lists don't disclose amounts, and we don't claim to know this product's levels — these are the ranges these ingredients are usually effective at, so you can tell a real formula from "fairy-dusting" a marketed active. How we estimate this.

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