philosophy when hope is not enough night nightly restorative serum

philosophy

philosophy when hope is not enough night nightly restorative serum

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About this product

The philosophy when hope is not enough night nightly restorative serum is a serums, essence, ampoule. Our analysis of its 57 ingredients (44 low-risk) rates it Excellent (86/100). Based on its ingredients, it looks well-suited to dry skin. Heads up: it contains fragrance, which can irritate sensitive or reactive skin.

Vegan-friendly Reef-safe

Summarised from our ingredient analysis — not brand marketing copy.

At a glance

Type
Serums, Essence, Ampoules
Ingredients
57
Low-risk
44
Fragrance
Contains fragrance
Origin
United States

The evidence

Quick Product Notes

Paraben-Free Sulfate-Free Alcohol-Free Silicone-Free EU Allergen-Free Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Safe

Notable Effects & Ingredients

No Notable Effects & Ingredients

Ingredients Related to Skin Types

Good   Bad — tap a skin type to see which ingredients · estimated from ingredient functions
Dry Skin 24/9
Good for dry skin
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract Dimethiconol Linolenic Acid Linoleic Acid Borago Officinalis Seed Oil Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil Silica Dimethyl Silylate Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil Ethylhexyl Palmitate Oleic Acid Isononyl Isononanoate Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Caprylyl Glycol Butylene Glycol Sodium Hyaluronate Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil Tribehenin Palmitic Acid Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate Cyclopentasiloxane PEG-8 Lactic Acid
Caution for dry skin
Dimethicone Crosspolymer Linolenic Acid Linoleic Acid Stearic Acid Silica Dimethyl Silylate Oleic Acid Palmitic Acid Hexylene Glycol PEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin 2/3
Good for oily/acne-prone skin
Glycyrrhiza Uralensis (Licorice) Root Extract Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C)
Caution for oily/acne-prone skin
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
Sensitive Skin 6/29
Good for sensitive skin
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract Ascorbyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) Farnesol BHT
Caution for sensitive skin
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract Linolenic Acid Linoleic Acid Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil Stearic Acid Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil Ascorbyl Palmitate Ethylhexyl Palmitate Oleic Acid Cichorium Intybus (Chicory) Root Extract Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Butylene Glycol Palmitic Acid Hexylene Glycol Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) Citric Acid Lactic Acid Farnesol Phenoxyethanol Linalool Citronellol Hexyl Cinnamal Limonene Benzyl Benzoate BHT Benzyl Salicylate Butylphenyl Methylpropional Hydroxycitronellal Fragrance

Ingredients list

57 total
Lower hazard (1) Higher hazard (8)
All57 Skin Conditioning41 Fragrance23 Emollient17 Masking15 Solvent10 Perfuming8 Humectant6 Antioxidant5
EWG CIR Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions Notes
3
A
Cyclopentasiloxane
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Solvent)
Silicone
Silicone
1
A
Dimethicone Crosspolymer
(Emulsion Stabilising, Hair Fixing, Suspending Agent Nonsurfactant, Viscosity Increasingagent Nonaqueous, Viscosity Controlling)
1
A
Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
(Binding Agent, Skin Conditioning Agent Occlusive, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling)
1
B
Isononyl Isononanoate
(Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent)
1
A
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil
(Fragrance, Skin Conditioning Agent Occlusive)
Bad for Oily Skin
Bad for Oily Skin
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
A
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
A
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
(Emollient, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Solvent)
1
A
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
(Emollient, Skin Conditioning)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
A
Dimethiconol
(Antifoaming Agent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Moisturising)
Silicone
Silicone
1
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
(Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning)
1
(-)-alpha-isabolol
1
A
Borago Officinalis Seed Oil
(Emollient, Skin Conditioning)
1
Linoleic Acid
(Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Sufactantsurfactant Cleansing Agent Is Included As A Function For The Soap Form Of Linoleic Acid., Antistatic Agent, Emollient)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
A
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
(Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antimicrobial)
1
A
Caprylyl Glycol
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Humectant)
1
A
1,2-Hexanediol
(Solvent)
6
A
BHT
(Antioxidant, Fragrance, Masking)
1
B
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
(Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Perfuming)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
A
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
(Viscosity Controlling)
8
Fragrance
(Deodorant, Masking, Perfuming)
1
A
Oleic Acid
(Fragrance, Sufactantsurfactant Cleansing Agent Is Included As A Function For The Soap Form Of Oleic Acid., Emollient, Emulsifying)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
A
Tribehenin
(Emollient, Skin Conditioning)
3
A
PEG-8
(Humectant, Solvent)
1
A
Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil
(Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Skin Conditioning Agent Occlusive)
Bad for Oily Skin
Bad for Oily Skin
1
A
Palmitic Acid
(Fragrance, Opacifying, Sufactant, Surfactant Emulsifying Agentsurfactant Cleansing Agent Is Included As A Function For The Soap Form Of Palmitic Acid., Emollient)
Bad for Oily Skin
Bad for Oily Skin
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
Tocopherol (Vitamin E) Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
1
A
Stearic Acid
(Fragrance, Sufactant, Emulsifying, Surfactantsurfactant Cleansing Agent Is Included As A Function For The Soap Form Of Stearic Acid., Emulsion Stabilising, Masking, Refatting)
Bad for Oily Skin
Bad for Oily Skin
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
Ceramide
3
PEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol
(Sufactant, Surfactant, Emulsifying)
1
A
Butylene Glycol
(Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Solvent, Viscositydecreasing Agent, Humectant, Masking, Viscosity Controlling)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
1
Linolenic Acid
(Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Sufactantsurfactant Cleansing Agent Is Included As A Function For The Soap Form Of Linolenic Acid., Antistatic Agent, Emollient, Perfuming)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
Magnolia Obovata Bark Extract
(Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil
(Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
Bad for Oily Skin
Bad for Oily Skin
1
A
Ascorbyl Palmitate
(Antioxidant, Masking)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
4
B
Lactic Acid
(Exfoliant, Fragrance, Humectant, Ph Adjuster, Skin Conditioning Agent Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Buffering Agent)
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
5
Linalool
(Fragrance, Deodorant, Masking)
Allergens
Allergens
6
A
Benzyl Benzoate
(Fragrance, Solvent, Antimicrobial, Masking)
Allergens
Allergens
1
B
Silica Dimethyl Silylate
(Anticaking Agent, Bulking Agent, Slip Modifier, Suspending Agent Nonsurfactant, Viscosityincreasing Agent Nonaqueous, Antifoaming Agent, Emollient, Emulsion Stabilising, Viscosity Controlling)
5
Citronellol
(Fragrance, Masking)
Allergens
Allergens
1
A
Glycyrrhiza Uralensis (Licorice) Root Extract
(Skin Conditioning)
7
Benzyl Salicylate
(Fragrance, Uv Absorber, Masking)
Allergens
Allergens
7
Butylphenyl Methylpropional
(Perfuming)
Allergens
Allergens
7
Hydroxycitronellal
(Fragrance, Masking)
Allergens
Allergens
5
Hexyl Cinnamal
(Fragrance, Masking)
Allergens
Allergens
6
Limonene
(Deodorant, Perfuming, Solvent)
Allergens
Allergens
1
A
Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C)
(Antioxidant, Fragrance, Ph Adjuster, Skin Conditioning, Buffering Agent, Masking)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
2
A
Citric Acid
(Chelating Agent, Fragrance, Ph Adjuster, Buffering Agent, Masking)
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
4
Farnesol
(Fragrance, Deodorant, Masking, Solvent, Soothing)
Allergens
Allergens
1
Water
(Solvent)
4
A
Phenoxyethanol
(Fragrance, Preservative)
Paraben
Paraben
1
A
Sodium Hyaluronate
(Skin Conditioning, Humectant)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
1
A
Hexylene Glycol
(Fragrance, Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Emulsifying, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Surfactant)
1
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14
(Skin Conditioning)
1
Ilomastat
(Chelating Agent, Skin Conditioning)
1
Cichorium Intybus (Chicory) Root Extract
(Fragrance, Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Ethylhexylglycerin
(Deodorant, Skin Conditioning)
1
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract
(Antioxidant, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Perfuming)

My Ingredient Notes

No personal ingredient notes yet. Save ingredients to your profile to get good/bad alerts here.

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Key ingredients

Cyclopentasiloxane
Skin Conditioning, Emollient
Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
Emollient
Isononyl Isononanoate
Skin Conditioning, Emollient
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Emollient, Skin Conditioning
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Emollient, Skin Conditioning
Dimethiconol
Skin Conditioning, Emollient

Benefits

Good for dry skin

Concerns

Contains paraben
Contains silicone
Contains eu allergen
Not fungal acne (malassezia) safe
Fragrance — higher EWG
Benzyl Salicylate — higher EWG
Butylphenyl Methylpropional — higher EWG
May not suit oily/acne-prone skin

EWG flags hazard, not real-world risk — ratings don't account for how much of an ingredient a product contains. Treat these as things to research, not verdicts. How we score →

Ingredients explained

Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Emulsion stabilising, Hair fixing
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Emulsion stabilisingHair fixingSuspending agent - nonsurfactantViscosity increasingagent - nonaqueousViscosity controlling
Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
Binding agent, Skin-conditioning agent - occlusive
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Binding agentSkin-conditioning agent - occlusiveViscosity increasing agentEmollientViscosity controlling
Isononyl Isononanoate
Skin conditioning, Emollient
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR B Skin conditioningEmollientAntistatic agent
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Emollient, Masking
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A EmollientMaskingPerfumingSkin conditioningSolvent
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Antioxidant, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 AntioxidantSkin conditioning
(-)-alpha-isabolol
Other
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1
Borago Officinalis Seed Oil
Emollient, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A EmollientSkin conditioning
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Skin conditioning, Emollient
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Skin conditioningEmollientAntimicrobial
Caprylyl Glycol
Hair conditioning, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Hair conditioningSkin conditioningEmollientHumectant
1,2-Hexanediol
Solvent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Solvent
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Viscosity controlling
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Viscosity controlling
Tribehenin
Emollient, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A EmollientSkin conditioning
PEG-8
Humectant, Solvent
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR A HumectantSolvent
Ceramide
Other
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1
PEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol
Sufactant, Surfactant
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 SufactantSurfactantEmulsifying
+ 10 more — see the full ingredients list above
Cyclopentasiloxane
Hair conditioning, Skin conditioning
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR A Hair conditioningSkin conditioningEmollientSolvent Silicone
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil
Fragrance, Skin-conditioning agent - occlusive
Potentially comedogenic - can block poresRead moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A FragranceSkin-conditioning agent - occlusive Bad for Oily SkinFungal-acne trigger
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
Other
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Fungal-acne trigger
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Emollient, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A EmollientSkin conditioning Fungal-acne trigger
Dimethiconol
Antifoaming agent, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Antifoaming agentSkin conditioningEmollientMoisturising Silicone
Linoleic Acid
Fragrance, Hair conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 FragranceHair conditioningSkin conditioningSufactantsurfactant-cleansing agent is included as a function for the soap form of linoleic acid.Antistatic agentEmollient Fungal-acne trigger
BHT
Antioxidant, Fragrance
Moderate-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 6 CIR A AntioxidantFragranceMasking
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Fragrance, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR B FragranceSkin conditioningEmollientPerfuming Fungal-acne trigger
Fragrance
Deodorant, Masking
Higher-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 8 DeodorantMaskingPerfuming
Oleic Acid
Fragrance, Sufactantsurfactant-cleansing agent is included as a function for the soap form of oleic acid.
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A FragranceSufactantsurfactant-cleansing agent is included as a function for the soap form of oleic acid.EmollientEmulsifying Fungal-acne trigger
Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil
Fragrance, Skin conditioning
Potentially comedogenic - can block poresRead moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A FragranceSkin conditioningSkin-conditioning agent -occlusive Bad for Oily Skin
Palmitic Acid
Fragrance, Opacifying
Potentially comedogenic - can block poresRead moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A FragranceOpacifyingSufactantSurfactant -emulsifying agentsurfactant-cleansing agent is included as a function for the soap form of palmitic acid.Emollient Bad for Oily SkinFungal-acne trigger
Tocopherol (Vitamin E)
Other
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Good for Dry Skin
Stearic Acid
Fragrance, Sufactant
Potentially comedogenic - can block poresRead moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A FragranceSufactantEmulsifyingSurfactantsurfactant-cleansing agent is included as a function for the soap form of stearic acid.Emulsion stabilisingMaskingRefatting Bad for Oily SkinFungal-acne trigger
Butylene Glycol
Fragrance, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A FragranceSkin conditioningSolventViscositydecreasing agentHumectantMaskingViscosity controlling Good for Dry Skin
+ 17 more — see the full ingredients list above

How to use

How to use

  • 1 Where it fits: Apply after toner and before moisturiser — thinnest to thickest.
  • 2 Morning only: Apply as the last step of your AM routine, after moisturiser, and reapply every ~2 hours of sun exposure.
  • 3 Wear SPF the next day: Acids and retinoids increase sun sensitivity — daily sunscreen is a must while using this.

General guidance from this product's category and active ingredients — always follow the directions on the package.

Trust & honesty

Effective levels — general guide

The concentrations these actives are typically effective at in research — not a measurement of this product.

Vitamin C (ascorbic) 5–20%

L-ascorbic acid is usually used at 5–20% (around 10–15% is common). Above ~20% adds little and tends to irritate more; it also needs a low pH to work.

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C)

AHA (acid exfoliant) 5–10% (OTC)

OTC leave-on AHAs are usually 5–10%. The effect also depends on pH and free-acid value, not the percentage alone.

Lactic Acid

INCI lists don't disclose amounts, and we don't claim to know this product's levels — these are the ranges these ingredients are usually effective at, so you can tell a real formula from "fairy-dusting" a marketed active. How we estimate this.

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