Enzyme-Active Retinol Serum

Protocol

Where to buy Possibly in stock

About this product

The Protocol Enzyme-Active Retinol Serum is a serums, essence, ampoule. Our analysis of its 24 ingredients (17 low-risk) rates it Excellent (94/100). Based on its ingredients, it looks well-suited to oily / acne-prone skin.

Reef-safe

Summarised from our ingredient analysis — not brand marketing copy.

At a glance

Type
Serums, Essence, Ampoules
Ingredients
24
Low-risk
17
Fragrance
Fragrance-free
Origin
United States

The evidence

Quick Product Notes

Paraben-Free Sulfate-Free Alcohol-Free Silicone-Free EU Allergen-Free Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Safe

Notable Effects & Ingredients

No Notable Effects & Ingredients

Ingredients Related to Skin Types

Good   Bad — tap a skin type to see which ingredients · estimated from ingredient functions
Dry Skin 5/7
Good for dry skin
Gluconolactone Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Glycerin Sodium Lactate Lecithin
Caution for dry skin
Maltodextrin Cyclodextrin Xanthan Gum Glycerin Alcohol Polysorbate 20 Lecithin
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin 2/0
Good for oily/acne-prone skin
Alcohol Retinol
Sensitive Skin 4/6
Good for sensitive skin
Glycerin Phenylethyl Resorcinol Tocopheryl Acetate Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Caution for sensitive skin
Gluconolactone Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Glycerin Alcohol Sodium Benzoate Retinol

Ingredients list

24 total
Lower hazard (1) Higher hazard (9)
All24 Skin Conditioning21 Solvent6 Hair Conditioning5 Fragrance4 Humectant4 Emulsion Stabilising4 Perfuming3 Viscosity Controlling3
EWG CIR Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions Notes
9
A
Retinol
(Skin Conditioning)
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
1
Phenylethyl Resorcinol
(Antioxidant)
Bisabolol
(Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Soothing)
3
Tocopheryl Acetate
(Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning)
Bad for Oily Skin
Bad for Oily Skin
Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract
(Skin Conditioning)
Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract
(Perfuming, Skin Conditioning)
3
B
Sodium Lactate
(Buffering Agent, Exfoliant, Humectant, Keratolytic)
2
3
Lecithin
(Skin Conditioning, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Antistatic Agent, Emollient)
2
Alcohol
(Antifoaming Agent, Antimicrobial, Astringent, Masking, Solvent, Viscosity Controlling)
Bad for Dry Skin
Bad for Dry Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
1
A
Pentylene Glycol
(Skin Conditioning, Solvent)
1
A
Maltodextrin
(Absorbent, Binding Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Film Forming, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Suspending Agent Nonsurfactant, Binding)
1
A
Xanthan Gum
(Binding Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Skin Conditioning, Surfactant Emulsifying Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Binding, Gel Forming, Viscosity Controlling)
3
A
Sodium Benzoate
(Fragrance, Preservative, Anticorrosive, Masking)
B
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
(Skin Conditioning)
Good for Sensitive Skin
Good for Sensitive Skin
1
Water
(Solvent)
1
A
Niacinamide
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing)
1
A
Cyclodextrin
(Absorbent, Chelating Agent)
1
A
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
(Emollient, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Solvent)
1
Gluconolactone
(Fragrance, Humectant, Solvent)
1
B
Carnitine
(Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Sufactant, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
2
A
Glycerin
(Denaturant, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Humectant, Oral Care Agent, Oral Health Care Drug, Skin Protecting, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Perfuming, Solvent)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
3
B
Polysorbate 20
(Emulsifying, Surfactant)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
Placental Enzymes
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
5
6
Retinal
(Skin Conditioning)

My Ingredient Notes

No personal ingredient notes yet. Save ingredients to your profile to get good/bad alerts here.

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Key ingredients

Retinol
Skin Conditioning
Phenylethyl Resorcinol
Antioxidant
Bisabolol
Skin Conditioning, Soothing
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning
Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract
Skin Conditioning
Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract
Skin Conditioning

Benefits

Good for oily/acne-prone skin

Concerns

Not fungal acne (malassezia) safe
Retinol — higher EWG
May not suit dry skin
May not suit sensitive skin

EWG flags hazard, not real-world risk — ratings don't account for how much of an ingredient a product contains. Treat these as things to research, not verdicts. How we score →

Ingredients explained

Phenylethyl Resorcinol
Antioxidant
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Antioxidant
Bisabolol
Fragrance, Skin conditioning
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A FragranceSkin conditioningSoothing
Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract
Skin conditioning
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A Skin conditioning
Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract
Perfuming, Skin conditioning
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A PerfumingSkin conditioning
Sodium Lactate
Buffering agent, Exfoliant
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR B Buffering agentExfoliantHumectantKeratolytic
Lecithin
Skin conditioning, Emulsifying
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 2–3 Skin conditioningEmulsifyingSurfactantAntistatic agentEmollient
Pentylene Glycol
Skin conditioning, Solvent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Skin conditioningSolvent
Maltodextrin
Absorbent, Binding agent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A AbsorbentBinding agentEmulsion stabilisingFilm formingHair conditioningSkin conditioningSuspending agent - nonsurfactantBinding
Xanthan Gum
Binding agent, Emulsion stabilising
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Binding agentEmulsion stabilisingSkin conditioningSurfactant -emulsifying agentViscosity increasing agentBindingGel formingViscosity controlling
Sodium Benzoate
Fragrance, Preservative
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR A FragrancePreservativeAnticorrosiveMasking
Water
Solvent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Solvent
Niacinamide
Hair conditioning, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Hair conditioningSkin conditioningSmoothing
Cyclodextrin
Absorbent, Chelating agent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A AbsorbentChelating agent
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Emollient, Masking
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A EmollientMaskingPerfumingSkin conditioningSolvent
Gluconolactone
Fragrance, Humectant
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 FragranceHumectantSolvent
+ 2 more — see the full ingredients list above
Retinol
Skin conditioning
Potentially a skin irritantRead moreShow less
EWG 9 CIR A Skin conditioning Bad for Sensitive Skin
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant, Skin conditioning
Potentially comedogenic - can block poresRead moreShow less
EWG 3 AntioxidantSkin conditioning Bad for Oily Skin
Alcohol
Antifoaming agent, Antimicrobial
Causes moisture evaporation - prone to dry out skinRead moreShow less
EWG 2 Antifoaming agentAntimicrobialAstringentMaskingSolventViscosity controlling Bad for Dry SkinBad for Sensitive Skin
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin conditioning
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A CIR B Skin conditioning Good for Sensitive Skin
Glycerin
Denaturant, Fragrance
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 2 CIR A DenaturantFragranceHair conditioningHumectantOral care agentOral health care drugSkin protectingViscosity decreasing agentPerfumingSolvent Good for Dry SkinFungal-acne trigger
Polysorbate 20
Emulsifying, Surfactant
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR B EmulsifyingSurfactant Fungal-acne trigger
Retinal
Skin conditioning
Moderate-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 5–6 Skin conditioning

How to use

How to use

  • 1 Where it fits: Apply after toner and before moisturiser — thinnest to thickest.
  • 2 Evening: Use at night — start 2–3× a week and build up as your skin tolerates it.
  • 3 Wear SPF the next day: Acids and retinoids increase sun sensitivity — daily sunscreen is a must while using this.

General guidance from this product's category and active ingredients — always follow the directions on the package.

Trust & honesty

Pregnancy & breastfeeding

Contains ingredients some choose to avoid or double-check while pregnant or nursing.

Often avoided
Retinoids (Vitamin A) (Retinol, Retinal)

Topical retinoids (retinol, retinaldehyde, retinyl esters) are widely advised against in pregnancy as a precaution. The strongest evidence is for ORAL retinoids; topical absorption is low, but most clinicians err on the side of caution.

This is general information, not medical advice. Pregnancy guidance varies and depends on concentration and your individual situation — always check with your doctor, midwife or pharmacist. How we flag this.

Effective levels — general guide

The concentrations these actives are typically effective at in research — not a measurement of this product.

Retinoids (Vitamin A) 0.01–1%

Most studied between 0.1% and 1%. Higher is not automatically better — irritation climbs with dose, so a well-formulated lower strength is often the sweet spot.

Retinol, Retinal

Niacinamide 2–5% (up to 10%)

Most research uses 2–5%; some formulas go to 10%. Very high levels can cause flushing in sensitive skin.

Niacinamide

INCI lists don't disclose amounts, and we don't claim to know this product's levels — these are the ranges these ingredients are usually effective at, so you can tell a real formula from "fairy-dusting" a marketed active. How we estimate this.

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