Azelac RU Luminous Fluid SPF 50

Sesderma

Azelac RU Luminous Fluid SPF 50

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About this product

The Sesderma Azelac RU Luminous Fluid SPF 50 is a emulsion. Our analysis of its 56 ingredients (42 low-risk) rates it Excellent (96/100). Based on its ingredients, it looks well-suited to oily / acne-prone and dry skin. Heads up: it contains fragrance, which can irritate sensitive or reactive skin.

Vegan-friendly

Summarised from our ingredient analysis — not brand marketing copy.

At a glance

Type
Emulsion
Ingredients
56
Low-risk
42
Fragrance
Contains fragrance
Origin
Spain
SPF
50 · blocks 98.0% UVB

The evidence

Quick Product Notes

Paraben-Free Sulfate-Free Alcohol-Free Silicone-Free EU Allergen-Free Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Safe

Notable Effects & Ingredients

No Notable Effects & Ingredients

Ingredients Related to Skin Types

Good   Bad — tap a skin type to see which ingredients · estimated from ingredient functions
Dry Skin 12/11
Good for dry skin
Glyceryl Stearate Glyceryl Oleate Isostearyl Alcohol Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Caprylyl Glycol Butylene Glycol Glycerin Propylene Glycol Dimethicone Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane Cyclopentasiloxane Lecithin
Caution for dry skin
Glyceryl Oleate Decyl Glucoside Glycerin Hexylene Glycol Alcohol Sodium Hydroxide Polysorbate 20 Alcohol Denat. Silica Lecithin Tranexamic Acid
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin 4/0
Good for oily/acne-prone skin
Azelaic Acid Alcohol Alcohol Denat. Tranexamic Acid
Sensitive Skin 5/17
Good for sensitive skin
Ascorbyl Palmitate Glycerin Dimethicone BHT 4-Butylresorcinol
Caution for sensitive skin
Glyceryl Oleate Disodium Phosphate Sodium Chloride Ascorbyl Palmitate Azelaic Acid Ethylcellulose Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Butylene Glycol Glycerin Propylene Glycol Phenethyl Alcohol Hexylene Glycol Citric Acid Alcohol Alcohol Denat. Phenoxyethanol BHT

Ingredients list

56 total
Lower hazard (1) Higher hazard (6)
All56 Skin Conditioning31 Fragrance14 Viscosity Controlling12 Masking11 Solvent9 Emollient9 Humectant7 Film Forming7
EWG CIR Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions Notes
1
Water
(Solvent)
6
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
(Uv Absorber, Uv Filter)
Bad for Oily Skin
Bad for Oily Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
1
A
Butylene Glycol
(Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Solvent, Viscositydecreasing Agent, Humectant, Masking, Viscosity Controlling)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
3
B
Propylene Glycol
(Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioningagent Miscellaneous, Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
1
Ethylhexyl Triazone
(Uv Absorber, Uv Filter)
4
Ethylhexyl Salicylate
(Uv Absorber, Uv Filter)
3
A
Cyclopentasiloxane
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Solvent)
Silicone
Silicone
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
(Skin Conditioning, Uv Absorber, Uv Filter)
2
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
(Uv Absorber, Uv Filter)
1
A
Polymethyl Methacrylate
(Film Forming)
3
Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
(Humectant, Foam Boosting, Hydrotrope, Emollient, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
Bellis Perennis Flower Extract
(Skin Conditioning)
2
Mica
(Cosmetic Colorant, Opacifying)
1
A
Isostearyl Alcohol
(Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
1
3
Titanium Dioxide
(Cosmetic Colorant, Opacifying, Sunscreen Agent, Uv Absorber)
Good for Sensitive Skin
Good for Sensitive Skin
1
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
(Emulsion Stabilising, Film Forming, Viscosity Controlling)
Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-2
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
3-O-ETHYL ASCORBIC ACID
(Skin Conditioning)
4-Butylresorcinol
(Antioxidant)
2
Alcohol
(Antifoaming Agent, Antimicrobial, Astringent, Masking, Solvent, Viscosity Controlling)
Bad for Dry Skin
Bad for Dry Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
4
Alcohol Denat.
(Antifoaming Agent, Antimicrobial, Astringent, Masking, Solvent, Viscosity Controlling)
Bad for Dry Skin
Bad for Dry Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
1
A
Ascorbyl Palmitate
(Antioxidant, Masking)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
A
Azelaic Acid
(Fragrance, Ph Adjuster, Buffering Agent, Masking)
6
A
BHT
(Antioxidant, Fragrance, Masking)
1
A
Butylene Glycol Cocoate
(Emulsion Stabilising, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsifying, Viscosity Controlling)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
A
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
(Emollient, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Solvent)
1
A
Caprylyl Glycol
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Humectant)
1
A
Carbomer
(Emulsion Stabilising, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Gel Forming, Viscosity Controlling)
2
A
Citric Acid
(Chelating Agent, Fragrance, Ph Adjuster, Buffering Agent, Masking)
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
1
B
Decyl Glucoside
(Cleansing, Emulsion Stabilising, Surfactant)
1
Diacetyl Boldine
(Skin Conditioning)
3
A
Dimethicone
(Antifoaming Agent, Skin Protecting, Emollient, Skin Conditioning)
Silicone
Silicone
1
B
Dipotassium Phosphate
(Anticorrosive, Ph Adjuster, Buffering Agent)
1
A
Disodium EDTA
(Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
1
B
Disodium Phosphate
(Buffering Agent, Anticorrosive, Fragrance, Ph Adjuster, Masking)
1
A
Ethylcellulose
(Binding Agent, Film Forming, Fragrance, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Binding, Viscosity Controlling)
1
A
Ethylhexylglycerin
(Deodorant, Skin Conditioning)
2
A
Glycerin
(Denaturant, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Humectant, Oral Care Agent, Oral Health Care Drug, Skin Protecting, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Perfuming, Solvent)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
A
Glyceryl Oleate
(Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Perfuming)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
A
Glyceryl Stearate
(Emollient, Emulsifying)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
A
Hexylene Glycol
(Fragrance, Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Emulsifying, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Surfactant)
2
3
Lecithin
(Skin Conditioning, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Antistatic Agent, Emollient)
1
Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract
(Skin Conditioning)
PARFUM
(Fragrance, Perfuming)
1
B
Phenethyl Alcohol
(Fragrance, Preservative, Masking)
4
A
Phenoxyethanol
(Fragrance, Preservative)
Paraben
Paraben
1
Polysilicone-11
(Film Forming)
3
B
Polysorbate 20
(Emulsifying, Surfactant)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
B
Potassium Phosphate
(Ph Adjuster, Buffering Agent)
1
2
A
Silica
(Abrasive, Absorbent, Anticaking Agent, Bulking Agent, Opacifying, Viscosity Controlling)
1
Sodium Chloride
(Bulking Agent, Masking, Oral Care Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
Sodium Cholate
(Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting)
3
B
Sodium Hydroxide
(Denaturant, Ph Adjuster, Buffering Agent)
TOCOPHEROL
(Antioxidant, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning)
Tranexamic Acid
(Cosmetic Astringent, Skin Conditioning)
1
Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine
(Skin Conditioning)

My Ingredient Notes

No personal ingredient notes yet. Save ingredients to your profile to get good/bad alerts here.

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Key ingredients

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
Uv Absorber, Uv Filter
Butylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning, Humectant
Propylene Glycol
Humectant, Skin Conditioning
Ethylhexyl Triazone
Uv Absorber, Uv Filter
Ethylhexyl Salicylate
Uv Absorber, Uv Filter
Cyclopentasiloxane
Skin Conditioning, Emollient

Benefits

Good for dry skin
Good for oily/acne-prone skin

Concerns

Contains paraben
Contains silicone
Not fungal acne (malassezia) safe
May not suit sensitive skin

Ingredients explained

Water
Solvent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Solvent
Ethylhexyl Triazone
Uv absorber, Uv filter
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Uv absorberUv filter
Ethylhexyl Salicylate
Uv absorber, Uv filter
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 4 Uv absorberUv filter
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
Skin conditioning, Uv absorber
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A Skin conditioningUv absorberUv filter
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
Uv absorber, Uv filter
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 2 Uv absorberUv filter
Polymethyl Methacrylate
Film forming
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Film forming
Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
Humectant, Foam boosting
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 HumectantFoam boostingHydrotropeEmollientHair conditioningSkin conditioning
Bellis Perennis Flower Extract
Skin conditioning
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A Skin conditioning
Mica
Cosmetic colorant, Opacifying
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 2 Cosmetic colorantOpacifying
Isostearyl Alcohol
Skin conditioning, Emollient
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Skin conditioningEmollientViscosity increasing agentViscosity controlling
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion stabilising, Film forming
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Emulsion stabilisingFilm formingViscosity controlling
Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-2
Hair conditioning, Skin conditioning
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A Hair conditioningSkin conditioning
3-O-ETHYL ASCORBIC ACID
Skin conditioning
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A Skin conditioning
4-Butylresorcinol
Antioxidant
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A Antioxidant
Azelaic Acid
Fragrance, Ph adjuster
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A FragrancePh adjusterBuffering agentMasking
+ 24 more — see the full ingredients list above
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
Uv absorber, Uv filter
Potentially a skin irritantRead moreShow less
EWG 6 Uv absorberUv filter Bad for Oily SkinBad for Sensitive Skin
Butylene Glycol
Fragrance, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A FragranceSkin conditioningSolventViscositydecreasing agentHumectantMaskingViscosity controlling Good for Dry Skin
Propylene Glycol
Fragrance, Humectant
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR B FragranceHumectantSkin-conditioningagent - miscellaneousSolventViscosity decreasing agentSkin conditioningViscosity controlling Good for Dry Skin
Cyclopentasiloxane
Hair conditioning, Skin conditioning
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR A Hair conditioningSkin conditioningEmollientSolvent Silicone
Titanium Dioxide
Cosmetic colorant, Opacifying
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 1–3 Cosmetic colorantOpacifyingSunscreen agentUv absorber Good for Sensitive Skin
Alcohol
Antifoaming agent, Antimicrobial
Causes moisture evaporation - prone to dry out skinRead moreShow less
EWG 2 Antifoaming agentAntimicrobialAstringentMaskingSolventViscosity controlling Bad for Dry SkinBad for Sensitive Skin
Alcohol Denat.
Antifoaming agent, Antimicrobial
Causes moisture evaporation - prone to dry out skinRead moreShow less
EWG 4 Antifoaming agentAntimicrobialAstringentMaskingSolventViscosity controlling Bad for Dry SkinBad for Sensitive Skin
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Antioxidant, Masking
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A AntioxidantMasking Fungal-acne trigger
BHT
Antioxidant, Fragrance
Moderate-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 6 CIR A AntioxidantFragranceMasking
Butylene Glycol Cocoate
Emulsion stabilising, Viscosity increasing agent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Emulsion stabilisingViscosity increasing agentEmulsifyingViscosity controlling Fungal-acne trigger
Citric Acid
Chelating agent, Fragrance
Skin irritation can occur at high concentrationRead moreShow less
EWG 2 CIR A Chelating agentFragrancePh adjusterBuffering agentMasking Bad for Sensitive Skin
Dimethicone
Antifoaming agent, Skin protecting
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR A Antifoaming agentSkin protectingEmollientSkin conditioning Silicone
Glycerin
Denaturant, Fragrance
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 2 CIR A DenaturantFragranceHair conditioningHumectantOral care agentOral health care drugSkin protectingViscosity decreasing agentPerfumingSolvent Good for Dry SkinFungal-acne trigger
Glyceryl Oleate
Fragrance, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A FragranceSkin conditioningEmollientEmulsifyingSurfactantPerfuming Fungal-acne trigger
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient, Emulsifying
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A EmollientEmulsifying Fungal-acne trigger
+ 2 more — see the full ingredients list above

How to use

How to use

  • 1 Morning only: Apply as the last step of your AM routine, after moisturiser, and reapply every ~2 hours of sun exposure.

General guidance from this product's category and active ingredients — always follow the directions on the package.

Trust & honesty

Effective levels — general guide

The concentrations these actives are typically effective at in research — not a measurement of this product.

Vitamin C (ascorbic) 5–20%

L-ascorbic acid is usually used at 5–20% (around 10–15% is common). Above ~20% adds little and tends to irritate more; it also needs a low pH to work.

3-O-ETHYL ASCORBIC ACID, Ascorbyl Palmitate

INCI lists don't disclose amounts, and we don't claim to know this product's levels — these are the ranges these ingredients are usually effective at, so you can tell a real formula from "fairy-dusting" a marketed active. How we estimate this.

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