Advanced Retinal Serum

The Inkey List

Where to buy Possibly in stock

About this product

The Inkey List Advanced Retinal Serum is a serums, essence, ampoule. Our analysis of its 28 ingredients (22 low-risk) rates it Excellent (95/100). Based on its ingredients, it looks well-suited to dry skin.

Vegan-friendly Reef-safe

Summarised from our ingredient analysis — not brand marketing copy.

At a glance

Type
Serums, Essence, Ampoules
Ingredients
28
Low-risk
22
Fragrance
Fragrance-free
Origin
United Kingdom

The evidence

Quick Product Notes

Paraben-Free Sulfate-Free Alcohol-Free Silicone-Free EU Allergen-Free Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Safe

Notable Effects & Ingredients

No Notable Effects & Ingredients

Ingredients Related to Skin Types

Good   Bad — tap a skin type to see which ingredients · estimated from ingredient functions
Dry Skin 10/4
Good for dry skin
Glyceryl Stearate Glyceryl Caprylate Diisopropyl Sebacate Dicaprylyl Carbonate Cetearyl Alcohol Isohexadecane Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Glycerin Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate Lactic Acid
Caution for dry skin
Glyceryl Caprylate Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate Glycerin Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin No data
Sensitive Skin 4/7
Good for sensitive skin
Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol Glycerin Tocophersolan Tocopheryl Acetate
Caution for sensitive skin
Dipropylene Glycol Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Glycerin 4-t-Butylcyclohexanol Sodium Benzoate Lactic Acid Phenoxyethanol

Ingredients list

28 total
Lower hazard (1) Higher hazard (6)
All28 Skin Conditioning21 Emollient8 Solvent7 Emulsion Stabilising6 Fragrance5 Emulsifying5 Masking4 Antioxidant3
EWG CIR Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions Notes
1
Water
(Solvent)
2
A
Glycerin
(Denaturant, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Humectant, Oral Care Agent, Oral Health Care Drug, Skin Protecting, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Perfuming, Solvent)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
A
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
(Emollient, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Solvent)
1
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
(Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1
Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate
(Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1
B
Isohexadecane
(Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Solvent)
1
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
(Emulsion Stabilising, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
1
A
Cetearyl Alcohol
(Emulsion Stabilising, Opacifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent Aqueous, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emollient, Emulsifying, Viscosity Controlling)
MANGIFERA INDICA SEED BUTTER
(Skin Conditioning)
Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
(Skin Conditioning, Skin Conditioning Emollient)
4
A
Phenoxyethanol
(Fragrance, Preservative)
Paraben
Paraben
1
A
Dipropylene Glycol
(Fragrance, Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Masking, Viscosity Controlling)
1
A
Pentylene Glycol
(Skin Conditioning, Solvent)
1
A
Glyceryl Caprylate
(Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1
A
Diisopropyl Sebacate
(Plasticizer, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Solvent)
1
A
Glyceryl Stearate
(Emollient, Emulsifying)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
4-t-Butylcyclohexanol
(Masking, Perfuming)
Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate
(Emulsion Stabilising, Slip Modifier, Surface Modifier)
5
6
Retinal
(Skin Conditioning)
1
B
Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate
(Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1
A
Tocophersolan
(Antioxidant)
3
Tocopheryl Acetate
(Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning)
Bad for Oily Skin
Bad for Oily Skin
1
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
(Chelating Agent)
1
A
Ethylhexylglycerin
(Deodorant, Skin Conditioning)
1
Bacillus Ferment
(Skin Conditioning)
4
B
Lactic Acid
(Exfoliant, Fragrance, Humectant, Ph Adjuster, Skin Conditioning Agent Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Buffering Agent)
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
3
A
Sodium Benzoate
(Fragrance, Preservative, Anticorrosive, Masking)
1
Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol
(Antioxidant)

My Ingredient Notes

No personal ingredient notes yet. Save ingredients to your profile to get good/bad alerts here.

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Key ingredients

Glycerin
Humectant, Skin Protecting
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Emollient, Skin Conditioning
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Skin Conditioning, Emollient
Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate
Skin Conditioning, Emollient
Isohexadecane
Skin Conditioning, Emollient
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient

Benefits

Good for dry skin

Concerns

Contains paraben
Not fungal acne (malassezia) safe
May not suit sensitive skin

Ingredients explained

Water
Solvent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Solvent
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Emollient, Masking
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A EmollientMaskingPerfumingSkin conditioningSolvent
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Skin conditioning, Emollient
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Skin conditioningEmollient
Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate
Skin conditioning, Emollient
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Skin conditioningEmollientEmulsifyingSurfactant
Isohexadecane
Skin conditioning, Emollient
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR B Skin conditioningEmollientSolvent
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion stabilising, Viscosity increasing agent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Emulsion stabilisingViscosity increasing agentViscosity controlling
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emulsion stabilising, Opacifying
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Emulsion stabilisingOpacifyingFoam boostingViscosity increasingagent - aqueousViscosity increasing agentEmollientEmulsifyingViscosity controlling
MANGIFERA INDICA SEED BUTTER
Skin conditioning
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A Skin conditioning
Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
Skin conditioning, Skin conditioning emollient
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A Skin conditioningSkin conditioning emollient
Dipropylene Glycol
Fragrance, Solvent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A FragranceSolventViscosity decreasing agentMaskingViscosity controlling
Pentylene Glycol
Skin conditioning, Solvent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Skin conditioningSolvent
Glyceryl Caprylate
Skin conditioning, Emollient
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Skin conditioningEmollientEmulsifyingSurfactant
Diisopropyl Sebacate
Plasticizer, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A PlasticizerSkin conditioningEmollientSolvent
4-t-Butylcyclohexanol
Masking, Perfuming
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 MaskingPerfuming
Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate
Emulsion stabilising, Slip modifier
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A Emulsion stabilisingSlip modifierSurface modifier
+ 7 more — see the full ingredients list above
Glycerin
Denaturant, Fragrance
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 2 CIR A DenaturantFragranceHair conditioningHumectantOral care agentOral health care drugSkin protectingViscosity decreasing agentPerfumingSolvent Good for Dry SkinFungal-acne trigger
Phenoxyethanol
Fragrance, Preservative
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 4 CIR A FragrancePreservative Paraben
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient, Emulsifying
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A EmollientEmulsifying Fungal-acne trigger
Retinal
Skin conditioning
Moderate-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 5–6 Skin conditioning
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant, Skin conditioning
Potentially comedogenic - can block poresRead moreShow less
EWG 3 AntioxidantSkin conditioning Bad for Oily Skin
Lactic Acid
Exfoliant, Fragrance
Skin irritation can occur at high concentrationRead moreShow less
EWG 4 CIR B ExfoliantFragranceHumectantPh adjusterSkin-conditioning agent -humectantSkin conditioningBuffering agent Bad for Sensitive Skin

How to use

How to use

  • 1 Where it fits: Apply after toner and before moisturiser — thinnest to thickest.
  • 2 Evening: Use at night — start 2–3× a week and build up as your skin tolerates it.
  • 3 Wear SPF the next day: Acids and retinoids increase sun sensitivity — daily sunscreen is a must while using this.

General guidance from this product's category and active ingredients — always follow the directions on the package.

Trust & honesty

Pregnancy & breastfeeding

Contains ingredients some choose to avoid or double-check while pregnant or nursing.

Often avoided
Retinoids (Vitamin A) (Retinal)

Topical retinoids (retinol, retinaldehyde, retinyl esters) are widely advised against in pregnancy as a precaution. The strongest evidence is for ORAL retinoids; topical absorption is low, but most clinicians err on the side of caution.

This is general information, not medical advice. Pregnancy guidance varies and depends on concentration and your individual situation — always check with your doctor, midwife or pharmacist. How we flag this.

Effective levels — general guide

The concentrations these actives are typically effective at in research — not a measurement of this product.

Retinoids (Vitamin A) 0.01–1%

Most studied between 0.1% and 1%. Higher is not automatically better — irritation climbs with dose, so a well-formulated lower strength is often the sweet spot.

Retinal

AHA (acid exfoliant) 5–10% (OTC)

OTC leave-on AHAs are usually 5–10%. The effect also depends on pH and free-acid value, not the percentage alone.

Lactic Acid

INCI lists don't disclose amounts, and we don't claim to know this product's levels — these are the ranges these ingredients are usually effective at, so you can tell a real formula from "fairy-dusting" a marketed active. How we estimate this.

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