Glass Skin Squalane + Niacinamide Facial Serum

Valjean Labs

Glass Skin Squalane + Niacinamide Facial Serum

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About this product

The Valjean Labs Glass Skin Squalane + Niacinamide Facial Serum is a serums, essence, ampoule. Our analysis of its 33 ingredients (20 low-risk) rates it Excellent (94/100). Based on its ingredients, it looks well-suited to oily / acne-prone and dry skin. Heads up: it contains fragrance, which can irritate sensitive or reactive skin.

Reef-safe

Summarised from our ingredient analysis — not brand marketing copy.

At a glance

Type
Serums, Essence, Ampoules
Ingredients
33
Low-risk
20
Fragrance
Contains fragrance
Origin
United States

The evidence

Quick Product Notes

Paraben-Free Sulfate-Free Alcohol-Free Silicone-Free EU Allergen-Free Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Safe

Notable Effects & Ingredients

No Notable Effects & Ingredients

Ingredients Related to Skin Types

Good   Bad — tap a skin type to see which ingredients · estimated from ingredient functions
Dry Skin 6/3
Good for dry skin
Glycereth-26 Squalane Sodium Hyaluronate Glycerin Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract Brassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract
Caution for dry skin
Xanthan Gum Glycerin Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin 2/0
Good for oily/acne-prone skin
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract Retinol
Sensitive Skin 6/7
Good for sensitive skin
Zinc Oxide Glycerin Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract Tocopheryl Acetate Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Caution for sensitive skin
Caffeine Glycerin Citric Acid Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract Phenoxyethanol Benzyl Alcohol Retinol

Ingredients list

33 total
Lower hazard (1) Higher hazard (9)
All33 Skin Conditioning28 Fragrance7 Humectant6 Hair Conditioning6 Antioxidant5 Masking4 Solvent4 Preservative3
EWG CIR Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions Notes
1
Water
(Solvent)
1
Glycereth-26
(Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Solvent, Viscosity Controlling)
1
A
Sodium Hyaluronate
(Skin Conditioning, Humectant)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
1
Palmitoyl Oligopeptide
(Skin Conditioning, Sufactant)
1
A
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
(Skin Conditioning)
1
Ceramide NP
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Niacinamide
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing)
1
Caffeine
(Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Masking)
1
Collagen
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
(Antioxidant, Perfuming)
Retinyl Palmitate
(Skin Conditioning, Skin Conditioning Miscellaneous)
ASCORBIC ACID
(Antioxidant, Buffering, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning)
1
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
(Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning)
3
Tocopheryl Acetate
(Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning)
Bad for Oily Skin
Bad for Oily Skin
1
A
Panthenol
(Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
1
B
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
(Antimicrobial, Antioxidant, Astringent, Emollient, Humectant, Masking, Oral Care Agent, Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Tonic, Uv Absorber)
Good for Oily Skin
Good for Oily Skin
Brassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract
(Humectant, Skin Conditioning)
Spinacia Oleracea Leaf Extract
(Skin Conditioning)
B
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
(Skin Conditioning)
Good for Sensitive Skin
Good for Sensitive Skin
Rosa Canina Seed Oil
(Skin Conditioning Emollient)
1
A
Squalane
(Emollient, Hair Conditioning, Refatting, Skin Conditioning)
9
A
Retinol
(Skin Conditioning)
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
2
3
Zinc Oxide
(Bulking Agent, Cosmetic Colorant, Skin Protecting, Sunscreen Agent)
Good for Oily Skin
Good for Oily Skin
Musa Sapientum Fruit Extract
(Skin Conditioning)
Lactococcus Ferment Lysate
(Skin Conditioning)
2
A
Glycerin
(Denaturant, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Humectant, Oral Care Agent, Oral Health Care Drug, Skin Protecting, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Perfuming, Solvent)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
3
A
Aminomethyl Propanol
(Ph Adjuster, Buffering Agent)
1
A
Xanthan Gum
(Binding Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Skin Conditioning, Surfactant Emulsifying Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Binding, Gel Forming, Viscosity Controlling)
2
A
Citric Acid
(Chelating Agent, Fragrance, Ph Adjuster, Buffering Agent, Masking)
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
4
A
Phenoxyethanol
(Fragrance, Preservative)
Paraben
Paraben
1
A
Dehydroacetic Acid
(Preservative)
5
A
Benzyl Alcohol
(External Analgesic, Fragrance, Oral Health Care Drug, Preservative, Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Masking)
Allergens
Allergens
PARFUM
(Fragrance, Perfuming)

My Ingredient Notes

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Key ingredients

Glycereth-26
Humectant
Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin Conditioning, Humectant
Palmitoyl Oligopeptide
Skin Conditioning
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin Conditioning
Ceramide NP
Skin Conditioning
Niacinamide
Skin Conditioning

Benefits

Good for dry skin
Good for oily/acne-prone skin

Concerns

Contains paraben
Contains eu allergen
Not fungal acne (malassezia) safe
Retinol — higher EWG
May not suit sensitive skin

EWG flags hazard, not real-world risk — ratings don't account for how much of an ingredient a product contains. Treat these as things to research, not verdicts. How we score →

Ingredients explained

Water
Solvent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Solvent
Glycereth-26
Humectant, Viscosity decreasing agent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 HumectantViscosity decreasing agentSolventViscosity controlling
Palmitoyl Oligopeptide
Skin conditioning, Sufactant
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Skin conditioningSufactant
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Skin conditioning
Ceramide NP
Hair conditioning, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Hair conditioningSkin conditioning
Niacinamide
Hair conditioning, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Hair conditioningSkin conditioningSmoothing
Caffeine
Fragrance, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 FragranceSkin conditioningMasking
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
Antioxidant, Perfuming
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A AntioxidantPerfuming
Retinyl Palmitate
Skin conditioning, Skin conditioning miscellaneous
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A Skin conditioningSkin conditioning miscellaneous
ASCORBIC ACID
Antioxidant, Buffering
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A AntioxidantBufferingFragranceSkin conditioning
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Antioxidant, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 AntioxidantSkin conditioning
Brassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract
Humectant, Skin conditioning
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A HumectantSkin conditioning
Spinacia Oleracea Leaf Extract
Skin conditioning
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A Skin conditioning
Rosa Canina Seed Oil
Skin conditioning emollient
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A Skin conditioning emollient
Squalane
Emollient, Hair conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A EmollientHair conditioningRefattingSkin conditioning
+ 6 more — see the full ingredients list above
Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin conditioning, Humectant
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Skin conditioningHumectant Good for Dry Skin
Collagen
Hair conditioning, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Hair conditioningSkin conditioning Good for Dry Skin
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant, Skin conditioning
Potentially comedogenic - can block poresRead moreShow less
EWG 3 AntioxidantSkin conditioning Bad for Oily Skin
Panthenol
Antistatic agent, Hair conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Antistatic agentHair conditioningSkin conditioning Good for Dry Skin
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Antimicrobial, Antioxidant
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR B AntimicrobialAntioxidantAstringentEmollientHumectantMaskingOral care agentSkin conditioningSkin protectingTonicUv absorber Good for Oily Skin
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin conditioning
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A CIR B Skin conditioning Good for Sensitive Skin
Retinol
Skin conditioning
Potentially a skin irritantRead moreShow less
EWG 9 CIR A Skin conditioning Bad for Sensitive Skin
Zinc Oxide
Bulking agent, Cosmetic colorant
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 2–3 Bulking agentCosmetic colorantSkin protectingSunscreen agent Good for Oily Skin
Glycerin
Denaturant, Fragrance
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 2 CIR A DenaturantFragranceHair conditioningHumectantOral care agentOral health care drugSkin protectingViscosity decreasing agentPerfumingSolvent Good for Dry SkinFungal-acne trigger
Citric Acid
Chelating agent, Fragrance
Skin irritation can occur at high concentrationRead moreShow less
EWG 2 CIR A Chelating agentFragrancePh adjusterBuffering agentMasking Bad for Sensitive Skin
Phenoxyethanol
Fragrance, Preservative
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 4 CIR A FragrancePreservative Paraben
Benzyl Alcohol
External analgesic, Fragrance
Moderate-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 5 CIR A External analgesicFragranceOral health care drugPreservativeSolventViscosity decreasing agentMasking Allergens

How to use

How to use

  • 1 Where it fits: Apply after toner and before moisturiser — thinnest to thickest.
  • 2 Morning only: Apply as the last step of your AM routine, after moisturiser, and reapply every ~2 hours of sun exposure.
  • 3 Wear SPF the next day: Acids and retinoids increase sun sensitivity — daily sunscreen is a must while using this.

General guidance from this product's category and active ingredients — always follow the directions on the package.

Trust & honesty

Pregnancy & breastfeeding

Contains ingredients some choose to avoid or double-check while pregnant or nursing.

Often avoided
Retinoids (Vitamin A) (Retinyl Palmitate, Retinol)

Topical retinoids (retinol, retinaldehyde, retinyl esters) are widely advised against in pregnancy as a precaution. The strongest evidence is for ORAL retinoids; topical absorption is low, but most clinicians err on the side of caution.

This is general information, not medical advice. Pregnancy guidance varies and depends on concentration and your individual situation — always check with your doctor, midwife or pharmacist. How we flag this.

Effective levels — general guide

The concentrations these actives are typically effective at in research — not a measurement of this product.

Retinoids (Vitamin A) 0.01–1%

Most studied between 0.1% and 1%. Higher is not automatically better — irritation climbs with dose, so a well-formulated lower strength is often the sweet spot.

Retinyl Palmitate, Retinol

Vitamin C (ascorbic) 5–20%

L-ascorbic acid is usually used at 5–20% (around 10–15% is common). Above ~20% adds little and tends to irritate more; it also needs a low pH to work.

ASCORBIC ACID, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Niacinamide 2–5% (up to 10%)

Most research uses 2–5%; some formulas go to 10%. Very high levels can cause flushing in sensitive skin.

Niacinamide

INCI lists don't disclose amounts, and we don't claim to know this product's levels — these are the ranges these ingredients are usually effective at, so you can tell a real formula from "fairy-dusting" a marketed active. How we estimate this.

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