Multi Acids & Retinoid Brightening Sleeping Facial
The Allies of Skin Multi Acids & Retinoid Brightening Sleeping Facial is a leave on & sleeping mask. Our analysis of its 49 ingredients (33 low-risk) rates it Excellent (96/100). Based on its ingredients, it looks well-suited to oily / acne-prone and dry skin.
The Allies of Skin Multi Acids & Retinoid Brightening Sleeping Facial is a leave on & sleeping mask. Our analysis of its 49 ingredients (33 low-risk) rates it Excellent (96/100). Based on its ingredients, it looks well-suited to oily / acne-prone and dry skin.
Summarised from our ingredient analysis — not brand marketing copy.
The evidence
| EWG | CIR | Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
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Water
(Solvent) |
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Glycerin
(Denaturant, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Humectant, Oral Care Agent, Oral Health Care Drug, Skin Protecting, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Perfuming, Solvent) |
Good for Dry Skin
Fungal Acne Trigger
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Glycolic Acid
(Exfoliant, Ph Adjuster, Buffering Agent) |
Good for Oily Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
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Polysorbate 20
(Emulsifying, Surfactant) |
Fungal Acne Trigger
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Propanediol
(Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling) |
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Niacinamide
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing) |
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Butylene Glycol
(Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Solvent, Viscositydecreasing Agent, Humectant, Masking, Viscosity Controlling) |
Good for Dry Skin
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Hydrolyzed Silk
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Humectant) |
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Sodium Hydroxide
(Denaturant, Ph Adjuster, Buffering Agent) |
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Yogurt
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting) |
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Lactic Acid
(Exfoliant, Fragrance, Humectant, Ph Adjuster, Skin Conditioning Agent Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Buffering Agent) |
Bad for Sensitive Skin
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Salicylic Acid
(Antiacne Agent, Antidandruff Agent, Corn/Callus/Wart Remover, Denaturant, Exfoliant, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Keratolytic, Masking, Preservative) |
Good for Oily Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
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Caprylyl Glycol
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Humectant) |
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Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
(Emulsion Stabilising, Viscosity Controlling) |
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Dimethyl Isosorbide
(Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling) |
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Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment
(Skin Conditioning) |
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Mel
(Humectant, Moisturising, Skin Conditioning Emollient) |
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Honey Extract
(Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Moisturising) |
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Panthenol
(Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning) |
Good for Dry Skin
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Allantoin
(Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Soothing) |
Good for Oily Skin
Good for Sensitive Skin
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glycyrrhiza glabra root extract
(Bleaching, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Skin Conditioning Emollient, Smoothing, Soothing) |
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Sodium Hyaluronate
(Skin Conditioning, Humectant) |
Good for Dry Skin
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Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer-3
(Humectant, Skin Conditioning) |
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Physalis Angulata Extract
(Skin Protecting) |
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Galactoarabinan
(Film Forming, Fragrance) |
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Globularia Alypum Leaf Extract
(Skin Conditioning) |
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Dimethyl Sulfone
(Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling) |
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Zymomonas Ferment Extract
(Humectant, Skin Conditioning) |
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Polygonum Cuspidatum Extract
(Cosmetic Astringent, Skin Conditioning) |
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Hydrolyzed Opuntia Ficus-Indica Flower Extract
(Abrasive, Skin Protecting) |
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Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract
(Skin Conditioning) |
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Mirabilis Jalapa Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
(Skin Conditioning) |
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Diglucosyl Gallic Acid
(Hair Conditioning) |
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Bisabolol
(Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Soothing) |
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Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate
(Skin Conditioning) |
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Rosmarinyl Glucoside
(Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning) |
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Caffeyl Glucoside
(Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning) |
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Gallyl Glucoside
(Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning) |
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Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
(Emollient, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Solvent) |
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Sodium Lactate
(Buffering Agent, Exfoliant, Humectant, Keratolytic) |
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Sodium Gluconate
(Chelating Agent, Skin Conditioning) |
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Maltodextrin
(Absorbent, Binding Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Film Forming, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Suspending Agent Nonsurfactant, Binding) |
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Sclerotium Gum
(Emulsion Stabilising, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling) |
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Xanthan Gum
(Binding Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Skin Conditioning, Surfactant Emulsifying Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Binding, Gel Forming, Viscosity Controlling) |
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Ethylhexylglycerin
(Deodorant, Skin Conditioning) |
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Hydroxyethylcellulose
(Binding Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Film Forming, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Binding, Stabilising, Viscosity Controlling) |
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Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
(Humectant, Viscosity Controlling) |
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Tetrasodium EDTA
(Chelating Agent) |
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Phenoxyethanol
(Fragrance, Preservative) |
Paraben
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No personal ingredient notes yet. Save ingredients to your profile to get good/bad alerts here.
How to use
General guidance from this product's category and active ingredients — always follow the directions on the package.
Trust & honesty
Contains ingredients some choose to avoid or double-check while pregnant or nursing.
Topical retinoids (retinol, retinaldehyde, retinyl esters) are widely advised against in pregnancy as a precaution. The strongest evidence is for ORAL retinoids; topical absorption is low, but most clinicians err on the side of caution.
Low-strength topical salicylic acid (BHA) is generally considered fine. Caution is usually reserved for high-strength leave-on products and salicylic peels.
This is general information, not medical advice. Pregnancy guidance varies and depends on concentration and your individual situation — always check with your doctor, midwife or pharmacist. How we flag this.
The concentrations these actives are typically effective at in research — not a measurement of this product.
Most studied between 0.1% and 1%. Higher is not automatically better — irritation climbs with dose, so a well-formulated lower strength is often the sweet spot.
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Most research uses 2–5%; some formulas go to 10%. Very high levels can cause flushing in sensitive skin.
Niacinamide
Salicylic acid is OTC-capped at 2%; 0.5–2% is the usual leave-on range. Much below that it acts more as a soothing agent than an exfoliant.
Salicylic Acid
OTC leave-on AHAs are usually 5–10%. The effect also depends on pH and free-acid value, not the percentage alone.
Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid
INCI lists don't disclose amounts, and we don't claim to know this product's levels — these are the ranges these ingredients are usually effective at, so you can tell a real formula from "fairy-dusting" a marketed active. How we estimate this.
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