Intensive AHA Peel Concentrated Serum

Institut Esthederm

Where to buy Possibly in stock

About this product

The Institut Esthederm Intensive AHA Peel Concentrated Serum is a serums, essence, ampoule. Our analysis of its 25 ingredients (19 low-risk) rates it Excellent (93/100). Based on its ingredients, it looks well-suited to oily / acne-prone and dry skin. Heads up: it contains fragrance, which can irritate sensitive or reactive skin.

Vegan-friendly Reef-safe

Summarised from our ingredient analysis — not brand marketing copy.

At a glance

Type
Serums, Essence, Ampoules
Ingredients
25
Low-risk
19
Fragrance
Contains fragrance
Origin
France

The evidence

Quick Product Notes

Paraben-Free Sulfate-Free Alcohol-Free Silicone-Free EU Allergen-Free Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Safe

Notable Effects & Ingredients

No Notable Effects & Ingredients

Ingredients Related to Skin Types

Good   Bad — tap a skin type to see which ingredients · estimated from ingredient functions
Dry Skin 8/5
Good for dry skin
C13-14 Isoparaffin Rhamnose Arachidyl Alcohol Glycerin Propylene Glycol Propylheptyl Caprylate PEG-75 Lactic Acid
Caution for dry skin
Arachidyl Glucoside Glycerin Salicylic Acid Alcohol Sodium Hydroxide
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin 2/0
Good for oily/acne-prone skin
Salicylic Acid Alcohol
Sensitive Skin 3/9
Good for sensitive skin
Glycerin Laminaria Digitata Extract Farnesol
Caution for sensitive skin
Rhamnose Arginine Glycerin Propylene Glycol Salicylic Acid Citric Acid Alcohol Lactic Acid Farnesol

Ingredients list

25 total
Lower hazard (1) Higher hazard (4)
All25 Skin Conditioning13 Fragrance10 Solvent9 Humectant7 Masking6 Viscosity Controlling5 Ph Adjuster4 Buffering Agent4
EWG CIR Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions Notes
1
Water
(Solvent)
1
B
Propylheptyl Caprylate
(Emollient)
1
Propanediol
(Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
4
B
Glycolic Acid
(Exfoliant, Ph Adjuster, Buffering Agent)
Good for Oily Skin
Good for Oily Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
2
A
Citric Acid
(Chelating Agent, Fragrance, Ph Adjuster, Buffering Agent, Masking)
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
3
B
Sodium Hydroxide
(Denaturant, Ph Adjuster, Buffering Agent)
4
B
Lactic Acid
(Exfoliant, Fragrance, Humectant, Ph Adjuster, Skin Conditioning Agent Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Buffering Agent)
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
2
A
Glycerin
(Denaturant, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Humectant, Oral Care Agent, Oral Health Care Drug, Skin Protecting, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Perfuming, Solvent)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
4
B
Salicylic Acid
(Antiacne Agent, Antidandruff Agent, Corn/Callus/Wart Remover, Denaturant, Exfoliant, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Keratolytic, Masking, Preservative)
Good for Oily Skin
Good for Oily Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
1
Arachidyl Alcohol
(Emulsion Stabilising, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling)
1
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer
(Viscosity Controlling)
2
Alcohol
(Antifoaming Agent, Antimicrobial, Astringent, Masking, Solvent, Viscosity Controlling)
Bad for Dry Skin
Bad for Dry Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
PARFUM
(Fragrance, Perfuming)
1
A
Arginine
(Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Masking)
1
A
Pentylene Glycol
(Skin Conditioning, Solvent)
1
A
Rhamnose
(Flavoring Agent, Fragrance, Humectant, Masking)
1
B
Arachidyl Glucoside
(Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1
B
C13-14 Isoparaffin
(Emollient, Solvent)
3
B
Propylene Glycol
(Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioningagent Miscellaneous, Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
3
A
PEG-75
(Binding Agent, Humectant, Solvent)
TOCOPHEROL
(Antioxidant, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning)
1
Carnosine
(Skin Conditioning)
1
Disodium Adenosine Triphosphate
(Skin Conditioning)
4
Farnesol
(Fragrance, Deodorant, Masking, Solvent, Soothing)
Allergens
Allergens
1
Laminaria Digitata Extract
(Skin Protecting)

My Ingredient Notes

No personal ingredient notes yet. Save ingredients to your profile to get good/bad alerts here.

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Key ingredients

AHA
Exfoliates skin for a brighter complexion.
BHA
Unclogs pores and reduces excess oil.
Vitamin E
Protects skin and soothes irritation.
Antioxidants
Shields skin from free radical damage.
Exfoliators
Removes dead skin cells to smoothe texture.

Benefits

HydratingBoosts hydration and relieves dry, tight skin.
BrighteningRestores radiance to dull, tired skin.
Scar HealingImproves the look of marks and scars.
Barrier RepairStrengthen and restore your skin's natural barrier.
Anti-AgingSoftens lines and helps skin look youthful.
Good For Oily SkinBalances oil and helps reduce shine.
Reduces Large PoresMinimizes the look of enlarged pores.
Dark SpotsFades dark spots for even skin tone.

Concerns

Contains eu allergen
Not fungal acne (malassezia) safe
May not suit sensitive skin

Ingredients explained

Water
Solvent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Solvent
Propylheptyl Caprylate
Emollient
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR B Emollient
Propanediol
Solvent, Viscosity decreasing agent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 SolventViscosity decreasing agentViscosity controlling
Sodium Hydroxide
Denaturant, Ph adjuster
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR B DenaturantPh adjusterBuffering agent
Arachidyl Alcohol
Emulsion stabilising, Viscosity increasing agent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Emulsion stabilisingViscosity increasing agentEmollientViscosity controlling
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer
Viscosity controlling
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Viscosity controlling
PARFUM
Fragrance, Perfuming
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A FragrancePerfuming
Arginine
Fragrance, Hair conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A FragranceHair conditioningSkin conditioningAntistatic agentMasking
Pentylene Glycol
Skin conditioning, Solvent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Skin conditioningSolvent
Rhamnose
Flavoring agent, Fragrance
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Flavoring agentFragranceHumectantMasking
Arachidyl Glucoside
Emulsifying, Surfactant
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR B EmulsifyingSurfactant
C13-14 Isoparaffin
Emollient, Solvent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR B EmollientSolvent
PEG-75
Binding agent, Humectant
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR A Binding agentHumectantSolvent
TOCOPHEROL
Antioxidant, Fragrance
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A AntioxidantFragranceSkin conditioning
Carnosine
Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Skin conditioning
+ 2 more — see the full ingredients list above
Glycolic Acid
Exfoliant, Ph adjuster
Skin irritation can occur at high concentrationRead moreShow less
EWG 4 CIR B ExfoliantPh adjusterBuffering agent Good for Oily SkinBad for Sensitive Skin
Citric Acid
Chelating agent, Fragrance
Skin irritation can occur at high concentrationRead moreShow less
EWG 2 CIR A Chelating agentFragrancePh adjusterBuffering agentMasking Bad for Sensitive Skin
Lactic Acid
Exfoliant, Fragrance
Skin irritation can occur at high concentrationRead moreShow less
EWG 4 CIR B ExfoliantFragranceHumectantPh adjusterSkin-conditioning agent -humectantSkin conditioningBuffering agent Bad for Sensitive Skin
Glycerin
Denaturant, Fragrance
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 2 CIR A DenaturantFragranceHair conditioningHumectantOral care agentOral health care drugSkin protectingViscosity decreasing agentPerfumingSolvent Good for Dry SkinFungal-acne trigger
Salicylic Acid
Antiacne agent, Antidandruff agent
Skin irritation can occur at high concentrationRead moreShow less
EWG 4 CIR B Antiacne agentAntidandruff agentCorn/callus/wart removerDenaturantExfoliantFragranceHair conditioningSkin conditioningKeratolyticMaskingPreservative Good for Oily SkinBad for Sensitive Skin
Alcohol
Antifoaming agent, Antimicrobial
Causes moisture evaporation - prone to dry out skinRead moreShow less
EWG 2 Antifoaming agentAntimicrobialAstringentMaskingSolventViscosity controlling Bad for Dry SkinBad for Sensitive Skin
Propylene Glycol
Fragrance, Humectant
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR B FragranceHumectantSkin-conditioningagent - miscellaneousSolventViscosity decreasing agentSkin conditioningViscosity controlling Good for Dry Skin
Farnesol
Fragrance, Deodorant
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 4 FragranceDeodorantMaskingSolventSoothing Allergens

How to use

How to use

  • 1 Where it fits: Apply after toner and before moisturiser — thinnest to thickest.
  • 2 Evening, start slow: Best in the PM a few times a week to begin with; avoid layering with other strong actives the same night.
  • 3 Wear SPF the next day: Acids and retinoids increase sun sensitivity — daily sunscreen is a must while using this.

General guidance from this product's category and active ingredients — always follow the directions on the package.

Trust & honesty

Pregnancy & breastfeeding

Contains ingredients some choose to avoid or double-check while pregnant or nursing.

Use with caution
BHA (salicylic) (Salicylic Acid)

Low-strength topical salicylic acid (BHA) is generally considered fine. Caution is usually reserved for high-strength leave-on products and salicylic peels.

This is general information, not medical advice. Pregnancy guidance varies and depends on concentration and your individual situation — always check with your doctor, midwife or pharmacist. How we flag this.

Effective levels — general guide

The concentrations these actives are typically effective at in research — not a measurement of this product.

BHA (salicylic) 0.5–2%

Salicylic acid is OTC-capped at 2%; 0.5–2% is the usual leave-on range. Much below that it acts more as a soothing agent than an exfoliant.

Salicylic Acid

AHA (acid exfoliant) 5–10% (OTC)

OTC leave-on AHAs are usually 5–10%. The effect also depends on pH and free-acid value, not the percentage alone.

Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid

INCI lists don't disclose amounts, and we don't claim to know this product's levels — these are the ranges these ingredients are usually effective at, so you can tell a real formula from "fairy-dusting" a marketed active. How we estimate this.

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